A Dress A Day

Hey Sailor!

2010-04-30T10:37:00.002-05:00

I know that this isn't a real sailor collar but the flare + the bow just makes me think of one.

I love how the two regular-sized women are studiously ignoring the tiny woman in the box, who, like a zoo animal, is also trying to ignore her captors. This particular pattern seems to be sized for the bigger women; but since the captured one is wearing the same dress, someone must have scaled it down for her, yes?

In my head the captors have found the smaller woman and are on their way to Fleet Week to make money exhibiting her in a freak show at Coney Island, but are having second thoughts. What's your take?

This pattern is from Jen at MOMSPatterns, who is also having a quick sale: Save 25% off your orders with MOMSPatterns Friday, Saturday & Sunday only using coupon code 'mayday'. (Jen offers free shipping to the US & Canada with the purchase of 5 or more patterns, by the way.)

Three Things

2010-04-28T10:38:00.002-05:00

1. I love, love, love the ::facepalm:: of Plaid Girl here. Combined with the "WTF?" expression on Green Stripe Girl, I really, really wish we could see what they are seeing. What could it be? I'm assuming it's some kind of really embarrassing male display behavior, but I'd love to hear your guesses.

2. Why can't I find shoes like Green Stripe Girl's? Seriously. Those are some darn cute shoes.

3. Thanks to Emma for the link to this pattern! (It's for sale, click on the image to visit the Etsy listing.)

Good Things Come To Those Who Lie In Wait (on Ebay)

2010-04-26T05:26:00.004-05:00

For reasons that should be painfully obvious, I have wanted more of this fabric for years. I bought some the moment I saw it, and made a big circle skirt, which I have altered at least a couple of times. But it's quilting cotton, which means it's not especially sturdy, and the skirt was beginning to look a little sad. Which made me more than a little sad. (That's one of the downsides of sewing -- even if something you make costs less than the $20 throwaway item from H&M or Target, it costs more in time and emotional investment, so you get madder when it wears out/rips/gets spilled on.)

And unfortunately, with fabric, even if you know the manufacturer's name and the fabric name, you can't rely on the seller knowing either of those pieces of information. So the only thing you can do is hit eBay at regular intervals and think "if I didn't know anything about this fabric, how would I describe it?"

Which is what I did, and now FOUR YARDS are on their merry way to me. Woo! With a bonus Hoo!

Do I know what I will sew with this yet? Not especially. But I know I will love it and hug it and squeeze it and call it George.

Not Used Except For Pocket

2010-04-23T06:18:00.000-05:00

"Not Used Except For Pocket" -- that may, in fact, be my epitaph. (Wouldn't that look good on a gravestone? It's surprising how much time I spend thinking about my grave marker considering that I intend to be cremated, isn't it?)

Anyway, memento mori schemento mori, look at this pattern! It's lovely (even if the pic is a bit fuzzy). I likes it. And I want to know why someone opened it up and only used the pocket. Imagine how good the other, pocketless dress had to be to be more worth sewing than this one!

This one is on sale from Penny at Antique Dollhouse of Patterns -- she's offering 35% of through Sunday (Paypal orders only, though). So you can browse through her site until you find the pattern that's annotated with "Used -- No Pocket Piece", right?

Oh, and here's an idea: who wants to start assembling a "found poetry" page on the Vintage Patterns Wiki based on things written on pattern envelopes? With almost 28,000 (!) patterns, there must be a number of interesting notes to choose from!

A Few Questions

2010-04-21T09:12:00.003-05:00

Question 1: How cute is that bodice? I love the high neck and all those little buttons ... sigh. (This button thing has got me bad, and that ain't good.)

Question 2: What the heck is in that box? Unwrapper looks gleeful, looker-on even more so. I think that they have swiped some OTHER girl's box of chocolates, and are planning to eat all the chocolates themselves, then on refilling the box with something hilarious and embarrassing, such as woolen long underwear, thus provoking consternation and discord between the intended recipient and her chocolates-giving beau. But that's just my take. What's yours?

Question 3: Did you know that this pattern is on SALE? Yes, yes it is: 20% with code EARTH DAY, through Friday. And get free shipping when you buy three or more patterns! (From Sandritocat.)

In Praise of Buttons

2010-04-20T10:38:00.002-05:00

Aren't those gorgeous? I have been thinking a LOT about buttons lately. I mean, more than usual (and far more than "normal" people).

Some of my thoughts:

-- I want a big circle skirt, black, where the hem is a four-inch border of grey mother-of-pearl buttons, in a bunch of different sizes. Bonus points if I can lay them out so that they seem to swirl ...

-- Or, ooh, how about a shirtdress with a button print, with the "buttons" in vertical stripes down the fabric, maybe 5/8" wide, spaced an inch or so apart? This would be lovely in black and white, or red and white, or white with multicolor.

-- I want a black t-shirt with a big white four-hole button printed on the front. Ditto a tote bag.

-- More fabric, this time with a huge four-hole button print. By "huge" I mean buttons that are orange-sized. Black with white or red buttons, or black with mostly white buttons and a red button every so often for "pop". (For a Heidi dress, naturally.)

In the meantime, I will just look at these buttons some more (from the blog Vintage and Modern Unite):

What are your buttony thoughts?

This Is Driving Me Crazy

2010-04-19T06:00:00.000-05:00

This is a new Vogue reproduction pattern (Vogue 1172), and I know, absolutely and without doubt, that I once blogged about the original of this pattern. Can I remember it now? Can I find it now? Is it labeled with any of the hundreds of facetious tags I have used since starting to blog five years ago? No, no, and double no, with a garnish of freshly-ground imported nope.

I vaguely remember that someone else was looking for this pattern, and maybe I was putting out an APB? Possibly? Or maybe it was just me wishing I had an excuse to make a dress that can require up to SEVEN YARDS of fabric to make? No? Doesn't ring a bell?

I do love this pattern, though, so I'm very happy to see it back in production. I just wish I could remember the original number, although I suppose it doesn't make much difference. But wouldn't it be cool if someone (NOT ME) blogged about making two versions, one from the vintage pattern and one from the reproduction? It would be awesome if someone (NOT ME) wanted to take on the challenge ... (did I say NOT ME loud enough? I hope so.)

If you remember the original number, oh please have mercy and leave a comment letting me know!

Today's Pattern Pros and Cons, and Sale

2010-04-14T01:16:00.003-05:00

Pros:

Shawl collar (love!)
Pockets (duh, love!)

Swishy-swishy skirt (all those little gathers, love!)

Buttons (love that placket!)

Cons:

Model on left has no eyes, like I've seen on eighty-kajillion science-fiction shows -- yet it scares me every time. NO EYES, people! (Dr Who, I'm especially looking at you. And not just because your new incarnation is cute as a button, Mr. Fish Custard Man.)

Model on the right looks as if she's calculating exactly the right angle of entry she'll need to remove your liver with a hairpin. Either that or she's checking out the photographer's assistant. Not sure which -- possibly both.

All right then -- more pros than cons! So if you'd like this pattern, click on the link; this pattern (and all the other ones) on Michelle's Patterns from the Past are on sale -- 15% off through the end of April. Use the code SPRING.

Today's Pattern Story and Sale

2010-04-09T08:32:00.003-05:00

INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA—New Graduates Size Up Potential Employers

New graduates of the Wartime Secretarial Pool and Military Academy of Indianapolis have been matched with potential employers today in the Academy's first-ever "draft day."

Graduating students were auctioned off the to the highest local bidders, many of them desperate for labor due to the war. The new workers' wages are federally regulated, but employers offered many perks, such as free hair waving, Friday movies, and company-supplied dickies.

Employer Sam Hardin, a local wholesale distributor, approved of the school's novel idea for matching employers and graduates. "These girls have had real good secretarial training," he agreed, "Plus, if we're invaded and Jerry gets this far, any one of them could take three or four down with a nail file. I've seen their drills." Jewel Harris, of Menckenville, who graduated with an advanced stenography certificate and the school's sharpshooting medal, was also happy with process. "Typing bills of lading and close-order drill sure beats washing dishes at home," she said.

Today's pattern is brought to us by Lisa, of Vintage Pattern Library. Her dog was hit by a car last week (he's fine, but there are vet bills!) so she's running a sale -- use code GODOGGO for 20% off, in honor of Boo, the magical bouncing dog. (And since Lisa and her family are huge Butler basketball fans, also in honor of the Butler Bulldogs!) Good though 4/11.

If Loving These is Wrong (you know the rest)

2010-04-08T05:49:00.001-05:00

I knew when I first saw these that I HAD to have them, even though they are 1) intended for fifteen-year-olds, and 2) patently ridiculous. But aren't they just AWESOME? They are. Don't try to deny it. They're Cynthia Rowley for Roxy, and I'm only slightly embarrassed to say I saw them in Lucky. (Remind me to go into my rant about the Lucky-fication of American Fashion, or perhaps you can just read my latest column in the Boston Globe, here.)

They are also quite comfortable and make people on the street (at least in New Orleans, where I was recently) say "Damn, girl, those are some cute shoes." Your street-interactions may vary, but only in the choice of positive adjective. I promise.

They also come in black and white gingham. What's not to love? I ask you. But I'm not listening.

Today's Pattern Story and Sale

2010-04-07T05:49:00.001-05:00

Carla: Well, well. What have we here?

Darla: Looks like someone here is unclear on how things are run in this town, boss.

Marla: [raises chin, menacingly.]

Carla: You mean someone doesn't know that this is OUR department store, Darla?

Darla: Looks that way, boss.

[Marla's silence, is, if anything, more unnerving than the rough voices of Carla and Darla.]

Carla: I'm sure these ... girls ... didn't mean any harm. And I'm sure they feel so terrible about trespassing that they'd like to make it up to us, don't you think so, Darla?

Darla: Makes sense to me, boss.

Carla: So if these ladies just hand over their new lipsticks, I think we'll call it a simple misunderstanding, right, Darla?

Darla: I'm sure they'll agree, boss.

[Marla starts humming under her breath. It may or may not be the Toreador song from Carmen.]

Carla: [examines lipsticks.] Very, very nice, ladies. I commend your excellent taste, if not your senses of direction. Have a lovely day.

Today's pattern is from Sheila, at Out of the Ashes -- and she's running a spring sale! Get 15% off starting tomorrow morning, April 8, with the coupon code SPRING. (All paid orders will ship Wednesday or Thursday 4/14 or 4/15.)

Ready for Anything

2010-04-06T06:00:00.000-05:00

Isn't this dress magnificent? It's from Lanetz Living.

I desperately want to make this up in a heavy black silk/cotton. You could wear it to ANYTHING. I'd wear the collar open, probably, with a scarf (if I were feeling dashing) or colored beads ... I wouldn't wear a brooch or pin for fear of getting it caught on something and ripping the dress.

If I had just one spare day's worth of time in the next two months I would buy this pattern outright. (I, um, already ordered that fabric. Black silk/cotton for $6.99/yard? Please.) But lately I've been trying not to hoard patterns that I know I won't sew right away; it doesn't seem quite fair. I just trust that when I have the time, the universe will make the pattern available to me. (I wish I could feel that way about fabrics, but they are SO much harder to search for ...)

This one deserves a good home. That skirt! Those pockets! I like the short-sleeved version best (although I probably would leave off the cuffs -- they're so lumpy under a cardigan).

This dress doesn't have to be dressy -- it would be marvelous in a red-and-white embroidered cotton, too. So sporty! You could wear it with red Keds and it would be adorable.

The Heidi, Now With More Fish

2010-04-05T05:28:00.001-05:00

Since I started making multiple iterations of the BurdaStyle Heidi dress, I've gotten lots of email about it. Some folks want advice on lining it, others want to know about fit issues, and still others are worried about the printing-it-out-and-taping-it-together part (don't worry about that, it's easy). No one, however, has written to me to say, "Erin, that's a nice dress and all, but you really need to ADD MORE FISH."

However, I knew that was what was in all of your hearts, so, behold:

I've had this fabric for more than THREE YEARS. Obviously, it was biding its time, waiting for me to meet the dress that would be its destiny. And what a destiny that is:

I love the pixilated, dappled look of this fabric. Several folks did not even notice the fish, when I wore it. So here, have a fish closeup:

And in case you were wondering, yes, this fabric IS nearly impossible to match to anything ... I have four pairs of pink shoes (yeah, that's a topic for another post) and NONE of them matched. (And I made this for a wedding -- if you can't wear pink shoes to a wedding, where can you wear pink shoes?) But I don't care, because: FISH.

Today's Pattern Story: Blasphemy Edition

2010-03-24T06:23:00.001-05:00

Black Dress: Betcha five bucks I can take down the one on the left before he finishes his drink.
Green Dress: Decent or indecent proposal?
Black Dress: Indecent. You get better jewelry from the indecent ones.
Green Dress: You're on! Didn't you notice the dog collar? He's a priest.
Black Dress: Honey, that's what makes this fun.

Thanks to Jen at MOMSPatterns.com for today's pattern ... AND she's running a sale: 15% off! Use the code 'vavoom'. (Free shipping to US & Canada with 5 patterns purchased. Jen has 1000s to choose from ...)

Liberty Heidi Update

2010-03-22T05:51:00.001-05:00

So I just could not let go of the Liberty Heidi idea, so I grabbed a couple of hours late Friday night and early Saturday and threw this together.

This is not one of my favorite Liberty prints -- I thought it was called "Bourton," but googling "Liberty Bourton" showed me something different, so who knows which one this is. It was, however, a perfect choice for a muslin, being 1) exactly the right weight, 2) something I would wear if the experiment worked, yet 3) not something I would be very sad to lose if I ended up throwing it away. I'm pretty sure I bought this on eBay from someone who was de-stashing, so it was also cheap.

I ended up adding about 4.5 inches to the center pieces of the front skirt and to the back -- they're both cut on the fold, so it wasn't hard.

I ended up not lining it at all -- I finished the bodice with bias binding cut from the same fabric, using the Dread Pirate Rodgers' excellent instructions. (The only difficulty was that the Liberty lawn is very slippery, so it's hard to mark with a pencil -- the pencil drags the fabric along. I ended up using chalk, which tends to brush off. Suboptimal, all around.)

I'm not sure why I'm showing you the side view, as this is such a busy print you probably can't even see the waist seam!

Somehow I managed to get the gathers off-center on the back; I'll wear it once and decide whether I like the way the dress works with the gathers before I rip it out and re-do it:

Problems: aside from getting the gathers off-center in the back, I also didn't gather the entire center front piece of the skirt -- I only gathered between the pleat markings. I think it would look better with the entire section gathered.

I'm going to try to wear this dress this week, weather permitting (ah, who am I kidding, I live in California now, it's the most permissive weather on the planet), and we'll see how it works. If it works, this is going to be great -- it takes SO LITTLE fabric, comparatively, that it opens up a lot of Liberty and novelty-print possibilities ...

Liberty in Literature

2010-03-19T06:00:00.000-05:00

From an odd story about cheating at cards in the presence of a Duchess, in an issue of Good Housekeeping of 1911.

Her gown was rather less imposing than anyone else's. I don't mean that it wasn't a credit to her hostess, but it seemed to do less striving for effect than our own. It was of a soft, clinging satin, in tones of palest gray. Except that the top was creamy with lace, it seemed not to have been "composed" at all. But for a dog collar of magnificent yellow topazes set in silver, she wore no gems. It was whispered about that the Duchess was patriotic in her wardrobe, and that this gown came from Liberty's in London; whereupon my smart neighbor concluded, "Well, if that is Liberty, give me Death." But I liked it— the gown, I mean. It was willing to be forgotten. It was perhaps the strongest impression that she made upon me, that one forgot her gown and her title in the charm of the lady herself.

The same issue has this illustration in it, which I find very, very humorous:

Karen's Heidi and a few related questions

2010-03-18T06:36:00.001-05:00

This is Karen's Heidi -- isn't it fabulous? I really, really love that fabric. You can read her review, here, on PatternReview. (You may need to log in, but a basic PatternReview membership is free, and if you haven't signed up already you really should -- it's fantastic for research!)

I ran across Karen's version while I was doing a quick check to see what kinds of variations on the BurdaStyle Heidi have been showing up. There's Burda's own Prom Variation, of course, but I haven't seen very many other ones. Possibly because the Heidi is VERY CLOSE to perfect as is, but I've been thinking that I'd like to make it in more lightweight fabrics, as summer comes on (here in the Northern Hemisphere, at least).

The Heidi I linked to before is made in Liberty Tana lawn ... but I'm wondering how the fairly narrow Heidi skirt works in a lightweight fabric. I'm worried it would ride up. So I was thinking I might double the width of the center front skirt panel and add a couple inches to the middle of the back of the skirt, which could then be gathered to make a slightly more summery and playful skirt.

I suppose the right answer is "line it, you dummy," but I haven't had much luck with lined skirts. Your thoughts?

Toys! Wonderful toys!

2010-03-17T06:00:00.000-05:00

On Anna's recommendation, I bought a copy of The Sewing Machine Attachment Handbook, which turns out to have been the book I've been looking for all my sewing life. Did your sewing machine come with a box of tiny, weirdly-shaped feet? Then you need this book. There are clear instructions for guides, hemmers, rufflers, binding and cording feet, sequin feet, walking feet ... and on and on. If you can screw, bolt, strap or clip it to your sewing machine, I think this book covers it.

My favorite guideline for judging sewing books is by whether or not they make you want to sew -- and this book makes me really, really want to sew. I think the hemming foot instructions alone are going to make my sewing life better.

It's also kindled in me a deep and painful longing for something called a "bias cutting guide" -- a doodad that clips to the end of your scissors so that you can cut bias tape without all that painful marking. I wants one, I do. Couldn't turn one up on eBay, though; does anyone have any leads?

(Also, if you buy it from the link above, the author, Charlene Phillips, will sign your copy. That's always nice!)

Liberty at Target

2010-03-16T06:00:00.001-05:00

Am I excited about the Liberty for Target line? Insert all questions you've ever heard about Popes and bears here. Yes, I am excited.

I'm a bit more excited about the accessories and some of the housewares than I am about the clothes, because many years of trial and error have shown me that stuff from Target simply Does Not Fit Me, but I have purchased several little things (e.g., the girls' dresses, in size XL, have a surprising amount of fabric) with big plans for remaking them into something else.

I'm a little disappointed that most of the prints are florals, even though I know that's what people associate with Liberty. I was hoping for more of my favorite abstracts (although there are some things in the Cars and the Mark prints, both of which I love).

The women's clothing was the most disappointing -- not the best prints, and almost all made in that scruffy poly-chiffon. Good thing the accessories are all so cute (and cotton).

(Speaking of Liberty, I also bought the bright bright bright pink "Petals and Peacocks" lipstick from the MAC Liberty collaboration, and I think I will actually wear it. It's really fun, and the packaging is spectacular, natch.)

Did you rush your local Target last Sunday? What did you buy, if anything?

Acid Yellow Glamour

2010-03-13T18:23:00.002-06:00

Wow, this dress (at Lucite Box Vintage) is over-the-top, in the best possible way. I love the two-tone, the glass buttons, and the belt, which has either a moustache or lips on it. For reals:

I am a huge fan of the different-colored sleeves poking out of a dark top. This looks fantastic.

I don't want to hear that you can't wear this color. Anyone can wear any color if they want to badly enough. All you have to do is care more about your own pleasure in the color than about other people's pleasure in looking at you. This is one arena where I say you should be absolutely selfish. You think that yellow washes you out and makes you look funny? If yellow makes you happy, wear it! Happiness is more important. (And you can always add some lipstick, right?)

Today's Pattern Story, In Six Words

2010-03-12T06:20:00.000-06:00

Flashing gang signs really wasn't helping.

In homage to Paul Ford.

(Thanks to Lauren for the image!)

A Few Procrastinatory Monday Links

2010-03-08T05:28:00.003-06:00

Jessica found this incredibly steampunk Norman pattern and wonders if anyone has information they can share about Mrs. N.R. Norman, inventress. This is Centennial Pattern No. 8, for those keeping score at home, and is from the 1890s. It may be a St. Louis company -- it's marked St. Louis. Any information? Please leave a comment! (Here's a bigger image.)

Speaking of comments, Becky O. left one on Friday pointing us to this WONDERFUL writeup by TrueUp about the different on-demand fabric printers. Exhaustive and well-researched, definitely worth checking out.

Kate found the button-top (not dress) I was thinking of. Great for Rolling Stones fans!

Kristen sent this link to dresses knitted from trash. So cool. (Although probably itchy.)

Anna sent me a link to The Sewing Machine Attachment book. (It's a book about different attachments FOR your machine, not about fostering your attachment TO your machine.) I have purchased mine, will review when I get it!

Lucy (who is the person behind Home Movie Day London) sent this link to a digitised (British spelling, in Lucy's honour) film of 1930s fashions. Lovely!

A few self-promoty links:

If you like words, and are on Facebook, might you not consider being a fan of Wordnik on Facebook? Our fan page is here. If you're not a Facebooker but still want Wordnik words of the day, that link is here. But the only place you can see the Wordnik LIST of the day (a collection of related words) is on Twitter:@wordnik. [If you're looking for me on Twitter, I'm @emckean for word-type stuff, @FakeErinMcKean for "what-I-had-for-lunch" type stuff.] (Whew! That's a lot of social media in one place ...)

Crossword Fabric

2010-03-05T06:00:00.000-06:00

As promised, here's the crossword fabric available at Spoonflower:

A few notes:

-- the blacks (and other dark colors) tend to wash out & fade really quickly on digitally printed fabric. I don't know how to fix this -- anyone have hints for keeping them dark?

-- this design is optimized for the upholstery-weight fabric. I haven't tested it on other weights. (That fabric is slightly off-white, too.)

-- this fabric was designed for me by Beth Keller. She's awesome. You can check out her Etsy site, KellerDesigning. I don't know if she's taking commissions now, but you could always ask ...

Enjoy!

Today's Pattern Story

2010-03-04T06:00:00.001-06:00

Darla: "Oh. You're right. I do look like a walking café curtain."

Carla: "I hated to be the one to tell you, but someone had to do it."

Darla: "And you know ..."

Carla: "That I look like I'm about to call "offsides!" at the World Tea-Drinking Championship? Yep."

Darla: "Our home-ec teacher has a lot to answer for."

Carla: "Don't worry, I already spiked the faculty coffeepot with something that causes unpleasant gastrointestinal effects, yet is non-life-threatening."

Darla: "You rock. Also, cute shoes!"

(Thanks to Janet at Lanetz Living for today's pattern!)

Talbots? Talbots. Huh.

2010-03-03T06:00:00.000-06:00

Somehow I managed to get on the Talbot's catalog mailing list and this shirtdress caught my eye. LOVE this color green:

I can't tell if it has pockets or not, but it really does look nice. The whole catalog seems full of surprises, including some great cardigans in one kajillion colors and some very very cute shoes.

I haven't shopped at Talbot's in ages -- it was always a bit off in a way I think our friends in the UK would call "mumsy." So either they have gotten better, or I have now aged into their target demo. Or both. Both is always possible.