A Dress A Day

A dress.
Mostly every day.

March 28, 2007

Mollie Parnis pattern

I know, I know, I said "no more patterns" a while back, but frankly, I don't think any of you thought I meant it. I certainly didn't. And how could I hold to that resolution, when confronted by this pattern, from eBay seller stevijean?


Spadea N 1338


It's by Mollie Parnis, who I admit I knew nothing about before googling her. (And I still don't know that much, except I know I like this dress.)

I didn't think I was a big ruffle person (parsed either as "person who likes big ruffles" or "person who really likes ruffles") but for some reason this dress just seemed really FUN. Like, make it in blue gingham fun. Like, laugh a lot while wearing it fun. Just plain FUN fun.

And I think it would also be charming in a nice thin black batiste, very summery yet not too girlish (despite the ruffles) worn with a black grosgrain ribbon belt. And if I could find dark-gray-on-black seersucker? THAT would be perfect.

The only thing I don't like about this pattern is how deep the vee is in the back, but I'm pretty sure I can fix that in the cutting-out.

Sorry no dress yesterday; it was my first day teaching (a class on dictionaries at Northwestern) and I wanted to be overprepared. (I think I missed overprepared and skewed right into "brain dump" but we'll see.) I'm also going to be scarce here until at least next Tuesday; we're taking off tomorrow for a family visit and I'm toying with the idea of Not Bringing My Laptop Along. It's scary (well, not too scary, I can check email on my phone) but the point of vacation is to vacate, yes?

Labels: , ,

March 26, 2007

Offering a Bounty


DVF ginkgo dress


Check out this dress, from Diane von Furstenberg (click on the link to visit the sale page at Bloomingdale's, where it's $325).

I'm not a huge fan of this style of dress, but the fabric ... I *REALLY* want this fabric. I really want about five yards of this fabric! I've been looking for ginkgo fabric forever.

So I'm offering a bounty. If you can tell me where the DVF sells her bolt-ends, and I am able to find this fabric off your clue, I will make you a circle skirt. Seriously. (And I *never* sew for other people, except very occasionally my sister.)

(Thanks also to everyone who commented on Saturday's puzzle dress! I had a great time at the tournament, but I fell short of my goal ... I wanted to finish as contestant 666, but I only managed to come in at 609. So about 55 fewer people than planned can now say "I beat a dictionary editor at crosswords!" Of course, there's always next year ... )

Labels: ,

March 24, 2007

4 Across: Prepare for Roasting

puzzle dress

I am not a puzzle expert. People are sometimes disappointed to learn this, because, obviously, as a lexicographer, I should be good at everything to do with words, including crosswords, Scrabble, and handwriting. (Note: I am not good at any of the preceding.)

I enjoy crosswords, but I'm not competitive, and if it's a choice between spending two hours hurting myself with the Sunday puzzle, and making a new skirt, I usually go for "make a new skirt."

So why am I wearing this dress (RIGHT NOW, I'm wearing this dress) at the American Crossword Puzzle Tournament?

Well, it's complicated, but it boils down to "I'm working for some folks making a words documentary and they got me to talk puzzle-guy-extraordinaire Francis into making a crossword with a bunch of underused words in it for me, and they're filming people solving it tonight."

Of course, once I knew I would be attending, the important question was "what will I wear?" Then I saw this fabric and, well, I *never* turn down a chance to make a stunt dress.

This is roughly the same pattern as this dress, which I made last year, but I couldn't find the skirt pattern pieces, which I think I had reassigned to another pattern last summer. So I Frankensteined it up with a different skirt pattern with has a scalloped bottom. (Which: never again! I had to HAND-SEW the edge binding on it! The skirt sure looks cute, though, so I'm sure I will eventually forget what a pain in the ass it was to do and try and make it again someday. Although you can't really see the scallops in the picture.)

Anyway, since I'm here, I thought I may as well compete, and thus give a whole lot of people the joy of beating a real, live dictionary editor in a crossword puzzle contest. Perhaps next year I will extend my altruism to the Scrabble tournament, where I would also be roundly shellacked.

Here's a closeup of the bodice (which is not exactly perfect, just like my puzzle-solving ability!):
puzzle dress

The piping's a bit uneven (again, like my puzzle ... you get the idea).

I'm having a great time here so far, though! Although that's probably because the contest hasn't actually started. I expect to be tearing my hair out and groaning within the hour.

Labels: , ,

March 23, 2007

Pockets = Freedom


V&A pockets

(Above illustration from The Workwoman's Guide [and it's a downloadable PDF, thank you Google Book Search!])

Are you unsurprised, as I was, to learn that the V&A website has a whole section on pockets? It's a good one, too (also unsurprising) and traces the initial demise of the pocket and rise of the handbag to the radical change in women's fashion of the 1790s, when dresses became too narrow to admit of the wearing of separate pockets tied around the waist under the dress. Because of this, women began to carry little bags, called reticules, which accommodated much less than the capacious separate pockets.

Last night I walked about fifty blocks (intentionally, and with a glad heart). The weather was beautiful -- it was a warm soft wet night (okay, I admit it, I like walking in a light rain), and I wasn't carrying a bag.

I had ditched my purse-cum-laptop-bag as it was just too big to dangle off me all night while I stood around clutching my club soda at a party (and I didn't bring a smaller bag with me on this trip). Besides, between the pocket in my skirt and the pockets of my coat, I could carry the essentials (ID, money, lipstick, treo, ipod).

Without a bag, I barely noticed those fifty blocks. It was amazing how freeing it was, to not have a bag to deal with, to shift, to move around to the front of your body and then to the back, to switch from arm to arm. Your arms swing unencumbered; you walk differently, faster. You can shove both hands in your pockets; you can put your hands on your hips while waiting impatiently for a light to change. I also noticed that some people gave me funny looks; whether it was "There's a woman without a bag!" or "Why the hell is she wearing a circle skirt in a grass-green camouflage print?" I couldn't tell.

On my way uptown, as an experiment, I counted women without bags. I saw one. I think she was eight years old, but she could have been nine. (Since this was about 11:45 p.m., I don't think this was a representative sample, and it's not like I stood around the busier intersections making sure I checked everyone, but hey.)

Now, I love bags, I obsess about bags (mostly about whether they have the right size and number of pockets ...) and I carry a bag most of the time. But when you have enough pockets, or the right kind of pockets, you can escape the bag and just enjoy the freedom to stride along unencumbered. You should try it ...

Labels: , ,

March 22, 2007

Buddha Dress


Buddha-print dress


Marie-Christine sent this, and, alas, it's sold. (But there's plenty more good stuff where she found this, at Kitty Girl Vintage!)

I was going to make a ton of dorky jokes about this dress ("it's the 'one with everything'" etc.) but really, I just wish I'd known the woman who designed this ("Dorothy O'Hara" is the label, and she seems to have been a costume designer for the movies) or any of the women who bought & wore it when it was new. I bet I would have really liked them.

Of course, the other thing this makes me want to see is other religion-themed dresses. I'm assuming the Prophet, Jehovah, and Jesus are unlikely candidates for fabrics, let alone dresses, but surely there must be more-or-less inappropriate fabrics with Hindu figures on them, or perhaps figures of Greek and Roman mythology, and of course the Flying Spaghetti Monster ... I bet the FSM wouldn't mind being on a dress. If there were a religious-dress meetup, would the atheist dress be a pure black, or a pure white? The agnostic dress gray? Would the animists have trees and rocks and plants and things? Leave suggestions for other (irreverent, impious, I know) suitable prints for the various religions in the comments, if you like.

Labels: ,

March 21, 2007

In One's Salad Days


Wish-Bone dress


Kate (of Hats by Katrinka) sent me this link to yet another company making dresses out of food (remember the Celestial Seasonings Dress?).

This one is from Wish-Bone, to promote their new sprayable salad dressings. I did almost bail out of watching the video when I realized it was hosted by Richard Simmons (my junior high school, in a move to encourage poor body image, eating disorders, and self-loathing among adolescent girls, had us do his "aerobics" LP in gym class. Many years later, in a fit of Stockholm Syndrome-induced thrifting, I bought a copy of that LP, which will really come in handy if I ever need to blast it from speakers to make teenagers or Noriega or whoever get offa my lawn).

Anyway, click on the picture to see the fashion show, where the models gamely wear cabbage leaves and spray salad dressing into the air. (If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you like.)

I'm really not sold on the cherry-tomato jewelry. I hope they're plastic, because otherwise ... just too much sticky and itchy to contemplate. And a waste of good tomatoes.

Labels:

March 20, 2007

That's Liza with a 'Z' (and Marisa with one 'S')


Berenson Ferre dress


Robin sent me this link, from Doyle Galleries.

This is a dress of Marisa Berenson's, and was worn when she was matron of honor (!) along with Elizabeth Taylor (!) at Liza Minelli's wedding in 2002.

Me, I'm just happy that we live in a world where this is considered a BRIDESMAID'S DRESS. (Okay, okay, MATRON of HONOR.) Do you think Marisa sat down and said "Liza, I'm so happy for you, darling, but no butt-bow on the back of my dress, please" and Liza got a little vague and thought she heard "No back"?

Leaving aside my well-known prejudices about black dresses at weddings (although this falls under the Bridesmaid Exception, to be sure) I'm not sure I'd ever wear this (not that I'd ever get the chance, it's both $4K and a size 6) unless I was trying to costume a play in which all the characters were animated gothic furniture. Although maybe if I were in a wedding where the best men were Michael and Tito Jackson, I'd just say "what the hell!" and go for it. Luckily I've never been in that situation. Who among us knows what we'd choose at that point?

Click through to the news story, if you dare, just to see a picture of co-Matron-of-Honor Liz Taylor's hat. Liz Taylor, is, in my opinion, one of the most technologically advanced cyborgs among us today, and I love her for it.

Oh, Liza and David, those crazy kids! With all this fashion around them, why couldn't they make it work?

Labels: ,

March 19, 2007

Enormous Dress Art Post


Leigh Pennebaker


Nancy sent me the link to the artist above, Leigh Pennebaker (warning, Flash-heavy site; easier to read about her here) who makes wire form dresses. I think this one is called "Bridget."

Sandra (and others) sent me a link to this marvelous artist, Susan Stockwell(very sensible site) who makes dresses from maps, like so:


Susan Stockwell


Theresa sent this, but it was forwarded to her without a good attribution; if anyone knows anything about the artist will you tell me, so I can link it here?

wood artist

And George (link is to his wife's new book, Momfidence) sent me a reference to the Zenith Gallery in DC, where Donna M. McCullough is showing her dress-themed work. This piece is called "Dancing With the Moon":

Donna M. McCullough


Got any other dress artists you'd like to recommend? Leave links in the comments ...

March 16, 2007

Secret Lives of Dresses #12


ebay item 260097663640


I don't drink the cocktails, of course, but I like them anyway. I like the sweaty short fat glasses that look so sure of themselves and smug, their little swords impaling the glossy maraschino cherries gleefully. I like the graceful martini glasses, too, with the smoky olives lurking in their depths, or the tiny onions. "Like eyeballs!" she said once, and I agreed with her. After that I was happy that she didn't drink the ones with the onions. Sometimes he makes her one of the short fat ones even before they leave for the party, when she's running around in stockings and no shoes, putting her earrings in while trying to find her favorite lipstick, which she was sure was in the pocket of her coat, but which usually turns out to have been left in the car.

On the way they don't usually listen to the radio, but when they get to the parties there's always music. I like that man with the sad voice the best, but I like the dancing songs, too. She's a good dancer, and she knows how to use me when she dances, how to make my skirt swirl just so. I especially like that moment when the dance has just stopped but she's still standing there in somebody's arms. Usually they're his arms, unless there's a card game starting up, and then it could be anyone. I like him the best, but there's another one, Bill -- he's a very good dancer. Sometimes, when they're dancing, he whispers into her ear. I can't hear what he says but I can hear what she says back. "Oh, Bill, you're terrible!" is what she says, but she doesn't sound upset. She's usually laughing.

I like seeing the other dresses, too, although of course we don't really talk. It's more like a series of little nods; I might nod to Alice's black crepe, as if to say "nice seeing you again," (although of course you see her everywhere, she really deserves a rest). I might give a little acknowledging nod to a new dress; there's usually at least one new dress at every party, and the new ones always get the most scrutiny. Everyone wants to make sure the fashion hasn't changed so much that their wearers will think they've become dowdy. I'm not one of the oldest, but I'm not one of the newest, either. I hear from her other dresses that sometimes the ones that have been to too many parties here go to her sister in Baltimore. I'm not sure where Baltimore is, but I hope they have parties. They must, or why would she send her dresses there? I don't want to go anywhere that doesn't have parties.

Sometimes unexpected things happen at parties -- there was the time that Gerry decided he didn't want to wear pants, for one. (I always wondered what the other suits thought about that, but of course we hardly ever talk to them, even when we share a closet. They're so uncommunicative.) Once she walked in on Phil and Amelia in the spare room. I thought they were dancing, but it seemed odd for them to be dancing so far from the music. Amelia's dress was all askew, too. It wasn't hanging right at all. And I'll never forget the time, at Harold and Pat's Christmas party, when Pat brought out that flaming dessert and the dangling ball fringe on her party apron went right up, just whoosh! Harold had to squirt her with the soda siphon. Luckily her dress was okay, it was a bright red polished cotton. I don't think cottons make very good party dresses, but maybe that's why Pat went all-out with such a fancy apron. After that party, on the way home, she laughed so hard I thought she was going to split my zipper.

On the way home from the parties he holds her hand, and they talk about everyone they just saw. "Can you believe he brought that woman from his office, and the divorce not final?" and "Jeff's not doing well, not doing well at all. Putting on a brave front, though, for Georgia." Sometimes they're quiet, and then I know they're tired, or that they had too many fat little glasses.

When we walk in the door her shoes come right off, and her coat goes over the nearest chair. Her earrings land next to her bag on the table in the hall, right by the mail. She whispers hello and goodbye and thank-you to the babysitter. Sometimes she and the babysitter yawn at the same time, and that makes them both laugh. The babysitter just lives two doors down, but he always walks her home. As soon as the door shuts again behind them, she rushes up the stairs to his room. First she stands in the doorway for a minute, making sure he's still asleep, that the noise of the door opening and closing didn't wake him.

I can see him in the dim light of the bunny nightlight, so I'm sure she can too, but she always goes closer. Sometimes I'm a bit afraid of the little boy; his hands are always so dirty! But I'm safe when he's asleep. She sits on the edge of the bed, and brushes his hair away from his forehead. Every time I see him, he needs a haircut. She always bends to kiss his cheek, something he usually doesn't allow before they leave for the party. His face is slack with sleep, and he doesn't turn away.

Then she just sits and watches him. I never thought watching someone sleep would be interesting (I think pajamas are really boring) but watching the little boy is, somehow. Maybe it's just feeling what she feels that's so interesting. Once, I remember, he laughed in his sleep. He must have been dreaming. I'll never forget that sound; it was so beautiful, like something made of crystal suddenly turning into bubbles and floating away.

She sits there until she hears the door open. Then she leans over him and whispers "I love you, darling boy," kisses him again, fusses with his covers, and heads downstairs. Sometimes he makes her one more drink, they sit on the sofa, talk a little, but usually she just helps him lock up and turn out the lights, before going to take me off. She always hangs me right up, which is nice. It's not comfortable to spend all night on the floor, especially after a party. I hope if I go to Baltimore her sister hangs up her dresses right away, too.

[Click on the image to go to the eBay listing for this dress.]
[Edited to change # -- this is actually #12, #11 was here.

Labels:

March 15, 2007

Back to the Source


Duro Olowu


Madelene (and several other folks, but I think Madelene was first) linked me to the Style.com coverage of Duro Olowu's recent London show. There were lots of gorgeous fabrics and some really lovely coats, but this was the only dress close to the iconic "Duro"-type.

I like the longer sleeves and the longer length -- I think this is great as an evening gown, very easy and comfortable yet glamorous, too (and for a shortish person I'm unfortunately enamored of maxi-length dresses). I also like the double-banding (it looks like) on the sleeves and at the hem.

The whole show is worth checking out ... I really wish I needed one of those coats. I mean, I *want* one of his coats; I just don't need it.

Labels: ,

March 14, 2007

Taking a Lemonade Stand


lemonade dress


Mary Beth tipped me off to this dress, by NotAMermaid, which was featured on SewRetro (which I do read, but am behind on ... I seem to have inadvertently invented a time machine, as I am always living about two days behind everyone else).

Isn't it lovely? I'm so glad to know that someone else is so desperate for summer that they're making lemonade-themed dresses. It makes me want to schedule a impatient-for-summer meetup; I'll wear my popsicle dress and she can wear her lemonade dress and then we'll have a picnic in the park. Wouldn't that be great? Unless, of course, it snows. (Sometimes it snows in April.)

I've never met NotAMermaid in person (as far as I know!), but I'm pretty sure we'd have a lot in common, based solely on this (midriff band!) dress. It's pretty much perfect, I think the only thing I would have done differently is pipe the midriff band in green (although I admit that could be read as being a bit over-the-top) ...

What are some other summer-themed dresses we could throw out there, as a challenge for other summer-anticipators? Something with a bathing-suit print of course (SO much easier to wear a bathing-suit print than an actual bathing suit); mint juleps and/or iced tea (not literally; I'm thinking a light brown dress with green banding); that great picnic-tablecloth fabric with the little ants printed on it (I've always wanted to make a circle skirt out of that); a dress in wide tiered multicolored stripes (like a beach ball) ... so many options, so many, many long and somewhat chilly weeks until summer.

Oh, I turned off moderation ... too many people's comments were getting lost and those thrice-damnéd spammers (shhh! don't draw their attention!) seem to have found other blogs to bother. Unless the spammers come back in force I probably won't turn it back on.

Labels:

March 13, 2007

The Long-Expected Maternity Dress


vogue 9800


First off: I am not pregnant. Just figured I should get that out there before the comments fill up with congratulations and my mom calls.

But, I have been pregnant (my son is now almost seven!), and many of you dear readers who are pregnant now or anticipate being pregnant at some not-so-far-off date have emailed me asking for a link to a good maternity dress pattern.

I only ended up making this one maternity dress (I got so big, so fast, that it seemed impractical to make something I'd burst out of, Hulk-like, before it was even hemmed). It's a great pattern (and I made it in an even better fabric: gorgeous Nicole Miller silk with lycra, a deep green with an abstract celery-green pattern of what looked like tangled webs).

And that, my friends, is what I consider the key to maternity sewing: love your fabric. While pregnant, you will be wearing so much of it, so often, for so long, that if you have even the slightest doubt about your love for a particular fabric, don't buy it.

Whereas in the normal course of events my wardrobe choices have a fairly close one-to-one correspondence with the days of the year, I think I had only about five maternity tops, all in bright colors. I'd rotate through the week masquerading as the Fruit of the Loom guys. First I'd be a giant red strawberry, then an obviously mutant raspberry, followed by a blueberry with a glandular problem, then an outsize yellow banana, until finishing up as The Great Pumpkin in my favorite, which was bright orange. (I had a ten-pound baby: you could see me coming from SPACE.)

If you feel guilty about buying nice fabric for something you will only wear a few months, remember that this dress takes SO much fabric that you can take it apart later and make it into something else. At least a blouse, if not a skirt. (Not that I've done that to mine, since I figure, in my superstitious way, that taking apart the only maternity dress I could stand is the #1 way with a bullet to become enceinte again.)

This pattern is $5.99 from Lanetz Living (and check in the upper right corner for your discount!). It's sized up to B38, but I remember it as being very generous -- so much so, that because my fabric had a bit of stretch, I was able to eliminate the back zipper. It was very easy to sew.

And, by the way, if you are pregnant, congratulations!

Labels: ,

March 12, 2007

Back in the Saddle


Simplicity 966


Okay. Whew. I'm back from my overwhelming conference (click here for a picture of the dress I spoke in) and ready to think about dresses again.

(Okay, to be fair, I never really STOP thinking about dresses -- that's why it's called an 'obsession' -- but now I can think coherently, or as coherently as I ever do, about them.)

Like this one, from eBay seller ElegantlyDelightful. Oh, how I wish it were in a larger size ... this one is a B32. Surplice top, midriff band, full or slim skirt ... what's not to love? And you could easily put nice pockets in those front skirt seams.

This would be gorgeous in a pale butter-yellow with gray grosgrain ribbon trim; very pretty in pale blue with white, and downright sophisticated in gray and white. (Of course it would be very nice in black, but no one ever really needs a push to imagine a dress in plain black, so I don't usually bring it up.)

Sorry about the spotty posting lately -- I have some posts in the queue, so it should be a steady flow of dress-related content this week. (There might also be a new "Secret Lives" in the next day or two ...)

Labels:

March 09, 2007

I missed blogging against sexism!


Plan 59.com doors55


Luckily (?) sexism is not a one-day-a-year thing so I guess I'm safe to blog a day late. The rest of the carnival-whatever is here.

Of course, I've had an exceptionally lucky and privileged life when it comes to feeling the effects of overt sexism. (I think the only time I was knowingly denied a job for being female was when I had a short-lived desire to be an altar server in the fifth grade.) Nobody's ever told me to my face that I couldn't do something I really wanted to because of my gender. That's not because sexism doesn't exist -- that's because I'm lucky (and quite possibly too obtuse to pick up on subtle hints).

But there's one thing that bugs me -- more a peeve, really. Especially now that I've become such a dress advocate. What is it? It's when guys come up to me and say "I like it when women wear dresses."

What?

Come again?

Now, you might think this is a quibble, because, hey, I like it when women wear dresses. Actually, no -- I like it when a woman -- one specific woman, one at a time -- comes up to me and tells me she ENJOYS wearing dresses. That is, I like it when I meet someone who shares my love of wearing dresses. I like it that someone else is enjoying something I think is enjoyable, not that an ENTIRE GENDER is conforming to my aesthetic ideal.

You might also say, "Hey, Erin, aren't there things that guys wear that you like?" And sure, I'd say. I love Jack Purcells so I know if I meet a guy wearing those that I will probably admire his taste. I know if a guy has a kickass messenger bag we could probably have an incredibly geeky gadget-stowing conversation (one that will probably last much longer than necessary), and I also enjoy the occasional ironic t-shirt. (I also have a strange attraction to Adidas Sambas, but that's just a leftover from having gone to high school in the 1980s.) But all these things are about making a connection with an individual based on mutual appreciation for an object.

But there's something about "I like it when women wear dresses" that completely irks me. Who knows, maybe it's the hangover from thousands of years of patriarchy, or a reminder that wearing dresses used to be an obligation, not a choice, but it just gives me the sneaking suspicion that maybe, just maybe, this is someone who might not see women as 100% belonging to the human race. Maybe it's because substituting almost anything else for the "wear dresses" part of the "I like it when women wear dresses" statement seems hinky. (Try it yourself. The only one I felt okay with was "I like it when women run for public office," and even that one felt weird.)

I am almost certainly overthinking this, I know. But just to be safe, if you're tempted to say something like this (for the ten guys who read this blog) how about substituting "I really like your dresses." Or "That's a great dress!" But not, under any circumstances "I wish my [wife/girlfriend/significant other/mother] wore dresses." (That one's really creepy.)

And this is certainly not a pressing ill that must be remedied before women can achieve full equality, but hey, this is a dress blog and I have to stay on topic!

This picture is from the marvelous Plan59. Go visit!

Labels: , , , ,

March 07, 2007

A good workwoman praises her tools

sewing kit

I travel with an old French sewing kit my friend Thora gave me.

Which, on the face of it, is ridiculous. I love this kit (antique! French! useful!) and would be heartbroken if it were lost. Even though I don't pack it in my carry on, all it would take would be one overzealous or light-fingered TSA agent to decide it was dangerous contraband (small red box full of sharp things?) and it would be Gone Forever.

Here's the inside:

sewing kit

See the cunning little scissors and the darling awl? And the thimble, which I never use? Why on earth would I risk losing this to satisfy the government's desire for Security Theater?

I bring this kit with me for two reasons: first, because I do more sewing in hotel rooms than I have previously cared to admit. (The way it goes is, Erin decides to make new skirt at last minute. Erin does not have time to do hand-hemming of said skirt before packing it. Erin throws appropriate bobbin into sewing kit, stays up way too late in destination city hemming said skirt and watching what is always available on every hotel TV in the land: reruns of Law and Order. Limit one per trip.)

Also, if I left this kit in a drawer at home, I'd probably never use it. I have multiple pairs of new, sharp, ultimately disposable scissors scattered around the house. Ditto seam rippers. (And we all know I don't use thimbles.) The box would sit in a drawer, being kept "safe" (next to all the jewelry I never wear) and that would be tragic. Tools are meant to be used, and every time I use these I am another woman in a line that probably goes back more than a hundred years. Every time I use these little scissors I think fondly of my friend Thora, who is a remarkable person.

Most importantly, every time I use these I enjoy using them. Their beauty somehow improves the mundane work of hemming -- it seems to go faster with this little box open beside me. So much of sewing is about enjoying the process (if you don't enjoy the process, it's not worth doing), and this box makes what could be incredibly annoying (hemming a skirt in a hotel room in poor light with the TV blaring -- most hotel rooms have two volume settings: mime and football stadium) a small and quiet pleasure.

Here are the scissors and awl out of the box:

sewing kit

If you have a chance, do something with your favorite tools today -- write something with your favorite pen. Cook something in your favorite pan. Take a minute to acknowledge the pleasure of good tools ...

Labels: ,

March 05, 2007

HOWTO: Buy Fabric


ebay item 8305987417

[Above: Fabric purchased on one day in July, 2006]

Margo left a comment recently asking me how I bought fabric. I thought replying just "Like a drunken sailor on shore leave, if drunken sailors bought fabric" probably wasn't helpful, so I thought I would lay out some rules for buying fabric that have served me well over the last few decades.

1. You never have enough fabric. If you tell yourself "I have enough fabric," you jinx yourself and will immediately need more fabric (except now that you've angered the fabric gods, everything will be horribly polyester and $15/yard). You ALWAYS need more fabric.

2. If offered an opportunity to shop for fabric, take it. You never know when you're going to need more fabric (oh, wait -- yes you do know, and the answer is "all the time" -- remember rule one: "You always need more fabric"?). So take advantage of every opportunity to shop for fabric.

3. If it is $1/yard and not aggressively hideous, buy three yards. If it's $1/yard and acceptable, buy five yards. If it's $1/yard and, if the fabric were a man [or woman] you would agree to meet him [or her] for coffee (but not a dinner date) buy ten yards. Any liking over that requires a fifteen- to twenty-yard purchase.

4. The basic unit of fabric purchase is four yards of 45" or three of 60" wide. Any less than that and you won't be able to get a fullish skirt out of it. If it has a large repeat (the amount of space it takes to repeat the pattern) or is a border print, or has stripes, or really, anything out of the ordinary, buy five yards. Don't bother carrying yardage for specific patterns with you: if you do buy exactly enough for a particular pattern, you will then cut out one piece wrong and when you go back out to buy more it will be all gone.

5. If you really, really, really love it, buy it right then. Otherwise it will sell out in less than 24 hours. (The corollary to this rule is that fabric you hate will clot the tables and racks at the fabric store until the place goes out of business or burns to the ground.)

6. If the fabric is too expensive to buy at least two yards, or is less than 40" wide, you can still buy it, but only as an objet d'art. You will never make a garment out of it. As long as you accept this up front, you'll be fine. (I have a one-yard piece of Matisse-print "Jazz" silk that I just pick up and look at every once in a while. It was $10/yard when that was astronomically expensive for me.)

6a. If you regularly wear halter tops rule 6 does not apply to you. But you will be making a LOT of halter tops. (Note: conversion from non-halter-top-wearing to halter-top-wearing just to use up your stash is not recommended.)

7. The proper ratio of prints to solids in your fabric purchasing is 10:1. The rationale for this is that good prints are fleeting but solids are always available. In fact, you should never actually have any black fabric in your stash. That is because keeping black fabric in your stash means you won't have a reason to go to the fabric store when you need black fabric, which would contravene rule 2.

8. If you make theatrical costumes, or participate in historical reenactments, or have ever thought "Someday I am going to make the Kinsale Cloak" you may only buy velvet in 20-yard increments.

9. Always make time to buy fabric when traveling. Global Economy, Schmobal Economy. They got different stuff there, wherever "there" is. Pack an extra bag, if you have to.

10. If you think, while looking at fabric, "I'd have no place to wear this, even IF I made it into anything," close your eyes and envision yourself in tears of rage and disappointment, having been invited at the last minute [but with enough time to sew something] to JUST the perfect place to wear something made of that fabric. The most horrible thing in the world is regret: protect yourself from it by buying fabric. And besides, how dumb will you feel when you're freezing to death in the coming nuclear winter/ecological catastrophe, if you don't buy five yards of that wool now?

11. Fabric bought online doesn't "count" against any self-imposed quotas (quotas which violate rules 1 and 2 anyway). Fabric purchased on eBay DOUBLE doesn't count.

Further thoughts: if you have small children, raise them in the belief that the fabric store is the best place in the world to go, ahead of Disney and Chuck E. Cheese. Resort to bribery if necessary. (Also teach them the "one finger rule": they can touch ANYTHING in the store that adults are allowed to touch, if they do so with only one finger. [Check that the finger is clean!] First violation is a warning. Second violation, they must clasp their hands on top of their head for the remainder of the visit.)

Know to the minute how long it takes you to get to each fabric store in your area. This will allow you to plan quick anonymous stops between other errands.

It is better to go to the fabric store without a particular fabric in mind. When the buyer is ready, the true fabric will appear.

So Margo, I hope this helps you, but I'm afraid I cannot be held liable for the size of the stash that will come from following any of these rules. Obey at your own risk.

Labels: , ,

March 03, 2007

Again with the Summer


Butterick 5248


I know, I know, there's still snow outside (at least there is in Chicago) and I'm jumping ahead again to the summer dresses. What is wrong with me? Can't I live in the now? Stay in the moment?

Well, no, not when the weather in the now sucks so badly. In general, too, I much prefer the future to the past, but vintage sewing gives me the best of both worlds. I can rummage around in the so-called dustbin of history for aesthetic flotsam like sewing patterns, and then wear them in front of my computer. I can't imagine that the makers of this pattern, for instance, ever even touched a computer. Maybe they never even saw a punch card! And yet the only way I could really find their work now is through one. It kind of gives you hope for all sorts of other things assumed to be ephemeral. Perhaps our work will live on in ways we never intended or imagined?

I love the brown version here -- I love brown for summer, especially brown and yellow -- although the border print is really cute, too. Although right now, with the snow and the cold and the having to wait yet one more week for Daylight Savings, I'd probably like anything that promised summer!

As you can see from the image, it's B32. Click on the image to visit the eBay auction ... I think this is at about $12 right now.

Labels: , ,

March 02, 2007

if you're as tickled by this as I am ...


ebay item 140087788663


Holly has this lovely feather-print dress up for sale, and it's really adorable. It almost made me forget that it's snowing outside, thinking of wearing this in the summer with little blue or yellow flats and a yellow raffia or canvas bag.

There's really something to be said for a summer wardrobe of full-skirted novelty-print dresses and little flats, isn't there? It's so easy and fun and light-hearted, after a winter of heavy wools and dull fabrics (okay, maybe not in my closet, but, you know, in general).

Lately I'm so desperate for green that I've either bought fabric for (or miracle of miracles, sewn out of my fabric stash) three green skirts! (One plain, one bandana-print, and one a shades-of-grass-green camo print.) All I can say is, there better be some crocuses around here soon, or I might start painting myself green ...

This dress is B42 ... a nice size, in pristine condition, with a BIN of $74.99! Here's a closeup of the fabric (but you should click on the picture to see the back view, which is really pretty):

ebay item 140087788663


[Oh, and just a reminder: you guys know that all the images I show here (unless they're of my own dresses or patterns) are clickable, right? You click on them, and you go to the source site: ebay, the seller, a museum, what-have-you? You do? Good!]

Labels: , , ,

March 01, 2007

A Biased Opinion


Simplicity 2230


Laura and I are in accord: this is one of the most gorgeous patterns we've ever seen.

It's at Vintage Martini, for a not-unreasonable $45.

I love the tulip sleeve, and if I were, oh, five inches taller I would be buying this and making it. Or maybe it would make me LOOK five inches taller?

Don't miss the pocket -- see, there, on the right?

If I had seen this in time I would have definitely put this in the Oscar-dress lineup. I liked Gwyneth Paltrow's dress this year fine, but this one would have been even better.

I think you could get a really interesting effect by doing the gathered parts in an ombre fabric -- it would be difficult, but really beautiful. Maybe in shades of blue, for a brunette?

In a very dull, matte black, with an updo, this would be a great dress to show off a pair of spectacular (borrowed) earrings, although I wouldn't do much more jewelry than that.

How would you make and/or style this dress?

Labels: ,