So this is my version of Simplicity 3875, henceforth known as Duro Junior.
I know I haven't been posting about the Duro lately, but that doesn't mean I haven't been THINKING about the Duro. I was looking for a lighter, slimmer version to wear when it's really hot: the Original Duro can be a LOT of fabric.
This pattern didn't originally jump out at me as a good candidate, mostly because the jewel-neck version on the pattern envelope had these dumb little string ties which managed to obscure the lines of the bodice. But once I erased those (mentally) I decided to give it a shot.
Although not actually difficult, this pattern is still a massive PITA to put together. The back of the dress has no waist seam (just a lengthwise back seam), so, in order to finish the neck edge with the bias facing BEFORE the front panels are attached, you have to sew the front bodice pieces to the back bodice pieces at the shoulder WAY early in the process. Which means for the rest of the construction, you're shoving that long back piece out of the way. Arrgh.
I was able to add pockets, too, in the side seams, although lining them up when sewing that seam was a bit tricky. There's a single notch to match the front skirt to the back at the side seam, so I placed my pocket piece on the front skirt pattern where I thought it should go, then cut a corresponding notch on the pocket -- that helped it match up pretty well.
The original pattern has the tie hanging down the back, but I prefer the way it looks brought around to the front.
Here's the back view:
And here's a closeup of the front:
I haven't hemmed the skirt, or the sleeves, BOTH of which were about three inches too long (PITA, pt. 3). I ended up cutting a 12 in the bodice and a 14 in the skirt, which was more or less the right size; if I had to do this again I'd maybe cut a 10 in the bodice (for narrower shoulders) and add some length to it, and a 16 in the skirt for a little bit more fullness. Although that would necessitate buying two copies of the pattern (PITA, pt. 4).
The fabric is Michael Miller, maybe? I bought it at City Quilter a gazillion years ago, I think ... (I really should start labeling my fabric with where and when and from whom I bought it, shouldn't I?) I think it's a little too stiff for this pattern, but it was a good tradeoff between fabric I could bear to screw up and fabric I would want to wear if it actually turned out okay. I think next time I will make it in some stripey seersucker, or maybe even in this silk noil I have lying around ...


































Cute!! While some of the sewing instructions flew over my head (completely!), I have to agree about the tie being in the front. Nicely done!
Posted by: Kim M | 07/14/2008 at 12:20 PM
wow! that may actually be my "most favorite erin dress" so far! What great fabric! you always post these fabrics that i just love and that I know I would never in a million years picked out on my own. it's great!
Posted by: Kristen | 07/14/2008 at 12:24 PM
It looks great - I totally agree with the ties wrapped around to the front. What if next time you split that back pattern piece at the waist, added a seam allowance of course, and then you wouldn't have to deal with as much fabric until later in the process. It would also make adding pockets easier.
Posted by: Little Hunting Creek | 07/14/2008 at 12:29 PM
I don't usually care for Duro dresses because the style is unflattering on my figure -- I end up looking pregnant. But your altered neckline on this is wonderful and your suggestions about lengthening the bodice and making a fuller skirt could make that style look a lot better on a short, heavy woman like me.Fabulous fabric too. Nothing like black, red, and grey for looking sophisticated and playful at the same time. :)
Posted by: 3KillerBs | 07/14/2008 at 01:10 PM
Great dress; I have a cheaper simplicity version pattern (the it's so easy one from Walmart) to try, maybe it's time to try it. Did you finish the mailorder walkaway dress?
Posted by: Myra | 07/14/2008 at 01:19 PM
It looks great! I love the fabric.
Posted by: Stacy | 07/14/2008 at 01:22 PM
I did the bias trim on the walkaway dress (look here for the big reveal as to WHAT COLOR later) but haven't done the buttons or (what is really holding me up) the pockets. Maybe tonight.
Posted by: Erin | 07/14/2008 at 01:23 PM
What a wonderful dress! I love the alterations you made to the pattern, and the fabric is perfect for it.
Posted by: Rebecca | 07/14/2008 at 01:35 PM
A really nice dress! Tying the sash in front makes the whole dress look slightly more Japonica. You could make one of the square knots that have the extra turn on top and on bottom half hitch, and the sash would look even more Asian.
Posted by: Anonymous | 07/14/2008 at 02:09 PM
I have had the same pattern in my stash for awhile now but haven't attempted it. Your comments have helped (prepared) me!--and I love the seersucker idea! I orighinally was thinking of floral.
Posted by: Cindy | 07/14/2008 at 02:50 PM
Cute dress, but just what exactly is a "Duro" dress? What is the definition?Re pockets for the dress with a wrap-around waist band, I'd just stitch some patch pockets to the facing of the waistband (inside). They'd be good only for tissues and small items but, depending on their placement, could be handy.
Posted by: Anonymous | 07/14/2008 at 02:57 PM
This dress is much more attractive than the standard "duro" dress. It is much more flattering. Super job!
Posted by: Ladygrande (Texas Marie) | 07/14/2008 at 03:06 PM
Love the dress! What serendipity...I used that pattern this weekend, too! Actually, I did the view with the crossover front, but the "duro" one is next on my list. I agree the facing was a PITA. The length is about right for me for office wear (I'm 5 7"). I'm posting a picture of it on my blog tomorrow if you care to look. I am wearing it today and am wrapping the tie around the front, too. I think it looks much better that way. I used knit for the body of the dress and cotton for the contrast pieces.
Posted by: Stacy | 07/14/2008 at 03:21 PM
Darling Duro! And the fabric - I would so love to have some! Love your interpretation!
Posted by: Cherie | 07/14/2008 at 03:24 PM
Elegant, yet slightly bonkers. I like that!
Posted by: Ruth Singer | 07/14/2008 at 04:24 PM
Too funny - I've sewn 3875 like a gazillion times! It's my go-to dress for something that's easy to throw together quickly and doesn't use a lot of fabric. I recognized it right away, although I don't think I've done the same exact view as Erin (and I ALWAYS add pockets!!)My most recent version was in the Alexander Henry 'Koto' fabric:http://bp1.blogger.com/_82pzvPZABy0/SBEERTLlupI/AAAAAAAAAfE/GxS3k4luKek/s1600-h/100_3079.JPG
Posted by: Joni | 07/14/2008 at 05:11 PM
A summer conference talk winner, I'd say. Great stuff!
Posted by: Eirlys | 07/14/2008 at 05:17 PM
Oh so cute. I love the fabric too. I reminds me of being a bit retro with a modern twist with the black sash in front. I agree, a fuller skirt would be nice. I am very partial to full skirts anyway. I would love to sew this dress. Perhaps a white linen or pale pink
Posted by: astronen | 07/14/2008 at 06:14 PM
I think I have this pattern...I need to check my stash...
Posted by: velvet plaza | 07/14/2008 at 07:38 PM
I think it's the perfect weight of fabric for the dress - it looks lovely and crisp so it's not going to look limp after a long hot day, and probably resist wrinkling too. It looks very sleek - I've been planning something similar, only with short sleeves. I can't wear batwing/kimono sleeves, they leave too much bulk under the arm, which only makes my bust look even bigger :-(. The only change I'd make is a ~3/4" band around the waist, and gently gather the back bodice and back skirt to the band. Gives a bit more structure to the back, and goes well with the waist tie.Lovely dress!
Posted by: /anne... | 07/14/2008 at 07:46 PM
I love it! Personally I'm a 40s fan so the more narrow skirt is calling to me. Hm, I have this pattern in the stash, what's the chance I have any fabric that would work with it?
Posted by: Alicia | 07/14/2008 at 08:04 PM
Heyy it looks so nice. And that dressform looks similar to mine. Is it Adjustoform, Supa-Fit, Dressmaking Model? And nice fabric you used. :)
Posted by: Mynrose | 07/14/2008 at 08:17 PM
This looks fantastic. Adding a waist seam to the back is a great idea and due to the sash, you don't have to worry about matching the pattern.
Posted by: wundermary | 07/14/2008 at 09:06 PM
I love the Duro junior ...more than Duro mre! Also love your taste in fabric, as always.
Posted by: Susan W. | 07/14/2008 at 11:41 PM
Ooh, I love! Joni's version is also great. And I would never otherwise have looked at that pattern envelope for one second, as I find the dresses in the photos really ugly.
Posted by: India | 07/14/2008 at 11:59 PM