Gathering My Thoughts

Carol, a little while back, sent me THREE BOXES of patterns. Just because. (I know, am I lucky, or what?)
The boxes were FULL of treasures, but this one in particular caught my eye, even though I'm not a huge devotee of this era. But look at those gathers, and the sweet curve of the neckline!
So the plan is to go ahead and make the bodice, slap it onto a plain circle skirt, and see what happens. I'll have to change the waistline gathers to small darts (I don't like blousiness at my waist), and there will be some fiddling involved with the sizing (this is a B32; I ... am not). However, I figure that the 1940s propensity for shoulderpads will work in my favor; by leaving them out I will get more room through the shoulder seam and the gathers should help with fullness over the bust. (And I have the "make the waist bigger" alteration down pat.)
I'm sure La BellaDonna could tell me why I want to put a circle skirt on this one -- I think this straight-skirt cut is probably fine for those shaped like Rulers and Vs, but I need more sweep in the skirt to balance out what I insist is an Hourglass (but may in fact be a Pear -- or perhaps just an Hourglass that needs to be flipped over?)
The only thing I can't decide is what fabric to use. I was thinking "huge floral!" (because I always think "huge floral!") but this might also be adorable in, say, gingham. Or seersucker. Or even eyelet. Ideas?
Oh, if you want to see the back of the pattern, it's here.
Labels: generosity, McCalls_6007


58 Comments:
At May 2, 2008 8:27:00 AM,
Barbara Prime said…
I wish I could get my hands on patterns like those, but they never pop up in my local thrift stores, and I'm not so much for ebay.
I think the gingham and eyelet might be cuteness overkill, but sometimes that's what you want! I would go with seesucker - it's so summery.
At May 2, 2008 8:31:00 AM,
shannonstoney said…
Wonderful. What era?
At May 2, 2008 8:37:00 AM,
Ms. D said…
I like the red version of the dress, only I would do it with lemon yellow batiste the skirt boarder stitching would be green and yellow morning glory vines with white butterflies and teal dragonflies scattered about the flowers. Do I have a desire for an fancy machine? Absolutely! Show us what you do. I love your vintage finds.
At May 2, 2008 8:44:00 AM,
Myra said…
An eyelet with a scalloped border so you don't have to hem?
At May 2, 2008 8:49:00 AM,
Nancy (nanflan) said…
Cute! I like it just the way it is, but it would work with a circle skirt. I'm seeing a lot of that neck and shoulder styling these days, but everything comes around, doesn't it?
At May 2, 2008 8:52:00 AM,
Julie said…
Gotta love the chance to show off a delightful border print!
At May 2, 2008 8:54:00 AM,
Sue said…
I LOVE this pattern! I'm not a fan of buttons sadly, so the shirtdress is totally lost on me, but I love little gathers and dresses that are simple that can go from being put over jeans to being worn by themselves with a pair of bohemian suede boots. Are gathers like that a difficult element for a beginning dressmaker since the dress on the whole seems pretty basic.
At May 2, 2008 8:56:00 AM,
Elles Niche said…
I absolutely LOVE that pattern! I would revel in the chance to find one! I love this era – so sophisticated. I agree, adore the bodice, not the skirt. I too would put it on a circle skirt. Hope your's is beautiful. Please post a picture for us to see. Love your blog!
At May 2, 2008 9:06:00 AM,
The J said…
I'm seeing an embossed-type fabric, although I don't know if they exist light enough for the dress. That or tone-on-tone all over embroidery.
But then I'm often more of a "quiet chic" chick than "large floral" - even if my latest projects beg to differ!
At May 2, 2008 9:16:00 AM,
cheekie said…
What a gorgeous pattern! I love it!
If it were me, I would do it in red, maybe silk (ish) or perhaps a sweet little lined voile? I think a big floral would make you lose the great line of it. Circle skirt, great idea too! I would do the same thing, or an a-line bias, those tummy gathers aren't the most flattering for me...yikes.
oooh just thought of another one, how about a little polka dot? red/black or black/white? something flowy though...
here I go, mind off on tangent...
At May 2, 2008 9:23:00 AM,
theresa said…
shannonstoney- Early 40s late 30s *i think*
At May 2, 2008 9:24:00 AM,
Doris said…
I LOVE this pattern, and now, thanks to you, Erin, I COVET this pattern. How cute for summer everyday wear! I would go with a lemony yellow border print that would play up the red version there. I...must...find...this....pattern....
At May 2, 2008 9:29:00 AM,
cindy said…
I absolutely adore the top of the dress! Erin, I am partial to navy and white gingham. A certain crispness in summertime. Please post a pic when completed!
And...I am about to do a search for the pattern in B40--wish me luck!
At May 2, 2008 9:30:00 AM,
Nora said…
I was thinking a handkerchief linen, though I'm also loving seersucker lately. I'd be interested to see a circle skirt in seersucker. And it could make the gathered area look kind of ombre, very cool...
At May 2, 2008 9:36:00 AM,
cpeep said…
This was one of my favorites from the whole lot. They all belonged to my mother-in-law and I thought Erin would provide a much better home than the black plastic garbage bag in my spare bedroom.
All evidence points to the 1940s on this one.
Carol
Extreme Cards and Papercrafting
P.S. So glad they arrived okay!
At May 2, 2008 9:39:00 AM,
lorraine said…
Great pattern! I have a blouse pattern from the same era that's almost the dupicate of this bodice. The angled shoulder seams are killer. I think that a circle skirt on this one might look a little too square-dancey, especially in gingham. I'd keep it true, even with an hourglass figure. I think I'd also keep the shoulder pads, because that's what's making the sleeves stand out nice and perky. And then I'd pair it with strong-looking 40s heels, authentic or repro, such as these:
http://tinyurl.com/5mysny
At May 2, 2008 9:46:00 AM,
lorrwill said…
I love it just the way it is (LOVE this era) but I could easily see and make this with a half circle skirt. I couldn't wear this though cos I need sleeves.
You are soooooooooooooooo lucky!
At May 2, 2008 10:06:00 AM,
Anonymous said…
I vote eyelet with a pale green ribbon trim. Or embroidered linen. Or seersucker. Not too full a skirt, maybe 1/2 or 1/4 circle...
At May 2, 2008 10:28:00 AM,
selvedge said…
Large floral border print.
Hey, I have the fabric, and the daughter that's the pattern size..
At May 2, 2008 10:31:00 AM,
Theresa said…
Question for La belladonna. I consider myself an upside down V with apple tendencies. My Measurements are 44-37-41.(My bra 38DD) Usually a 40B pattern is fine on me with a little taking in on the hips. Do you think I am a V, or an apple? Even when I am thin (which I haven't been in years.) I still have a 38DD bra size and my hips drop to a 39. I never have had any waist definition even when my stomach is flat.
At May 2, 2008 10:42:00 AM,
geogrrl said…
Be careful to choose a fabric with some drape--nothing too crisp--for this pattern. Too much crispness and those bustline gathers at the neck will stand out from the body and make you look like the Sta-Puft Marshmallow Man.
You don't necessarily have to go to a full circle skirt. A half circle skirt would do the job very well (I'm a pear, so I know) but would keep the "long" line of the overall pattern better than a full skirt.
Keep the print small for this one. A huge floral will look weird with all those bust gathers. And the flowers may wind up in uh, strange places on the bust.
At May 2, 2008 10:43:00 AM,
barbie2be said…
that is So so cute! i would make it exactly as it is. a nice small pattern, perhaps even eyelet.
At May 2, 2008 10:45:00 AM,
Cookie said…
You know, I was imagining a dress like this just yesterday! A white peasant blouse with a bias-cut white circle skirt in a soft fabric, and a bright belt! Hem should be mid calf. And yes, it could look square dance-ish, so keep it simple.
I think the border could have applique diamonds, in a blue and white print. Sort of like this: http://www.carolharrisco.com/MB-nancyblaine.html (the one called "Nancy Blaine") These baby clothes are horrific, BTW, and the baby would be in college before you finished them. But I like the "Nancy Blaine" idea for a decorated hem, if it were simplified.
At May 2, 2008 10:49:00 AM,
Canine Diamond said…
My comment got eaten! Try again:
Normally, as a definite pear-shape, I advocate circular skirts, but I think in this case I'd stick with the A-line and some *very small* gathers across the front only (no gathers across the butt. Never, ever), because I like the tie-in with the bodice. Pick soft, drapey fabric, though. I used to have a dress made out of a rayon that would have worked well for something like this.
I normally go for PATTERN, too, but I'd be afraid in this case it might swallow up that pretty bodice detail. I like the orange dress--pattern, but not too much pattern. The green one looks unfinished to me, but I think a big, all-over pattern might compete too much with the gathers.
At May 2, 2008 10:56:00 AM,
Sarah said…
I completely agree with geogrrl--you absolutely MUST choose something with drape or your bust will be much larger than expected in all the wrong places. Choose something thin, too. I had the fortune of making a dress exactly as you are imagining last summer out of a bright blue floral challis. The only difference is I left the gathers at the waist and added a wide cummerbund above a circle skirt. Turned out to be the best dress of the summer and I can't wait for it to stop being sweater weather so I can wear it again!
At May 2, 2008 11:07:00 AM,
Jen O said…
If you want to widen the hem to balance the shoulder width (and disquise hips), why not consider a 3/4 or 2/3 circle skirt, rather than the full circle? Unless your history with full circles has always been great, that cut might be too wide here, considering the existing shoulder width at the top.
Smoothing out the midriff, as you mention, sounds great. Also, considering the era of the pattern, soft and drapy rayons would have been used for this pattern. The shirred neckline will probably have the best results with a soft fabric (which will make the skirt drape softly as well).
(note to Theresa above: with your bust measurements, your top dominates your silhouetter, right? It would seem you are a "V" that probably doesn't wear belts and uses princess cut tops most easily, as you can adjust those darts that end at the armhole to fit your bustline best. Try skirts that have a flare or width at the hem, the 60's/70's fit and flare shift is your style, I'm guessing)
At May 2, 2008 11:11:00 AM,
knitgirl said…
Could you post the address for La Bella Donna's blog? I used to read her regularly, and somehow I've lost the link to her.
At May 2, 2008 11:17:00 AM,
Anonymous said…
Lavender Gingham.
At May 2, 2008 11:56:00 AM,
La BellaDonna said…
Erin, I'd be very careful about the seersucker, if I were you; my recollection regarding seersucker is that it will cheerfully "pouf," given half a chance. It depends, really, on how much "pouf" you want over your bosom. Seersucker over the shoulders and for the skirt, and an eyelet for the gathered bodice? I'd be in favor of eyelet and floral, because I'm always in favor of eyelet and floral. I also happen to like gingham, despite its country-western associations nowadays. Once it was an expensive import from India ... now it often calls up visions of square dancing. For that reason, I would definitely recommend a half-circle skirt in this instance, rather than a full circle. Since I haven't the slightest idea of your measurements, and I met you in the dead of winter with both of us muffled up, as far as I'm concerned, you're an Hourglass!
I'd like to take a moment to Speak on the Topic of the Half-Circle Skirt. As Erin has certainly noticed, and probably most of the rest of you by now, when I advocate putting together your own skirt or dress pattern, I will usually end it with ... "attach to a half-circle skirt." The half-circle skirt, I discovered many years ago, is a miraculous little piece of engineering. It is not so full (duh!) as a full-circle, which can make those new to vintage feel shy and costumey. Because of the way the grainline in the fabric falls in a half-circle skirt, the straight of the grain goes over the backside, with the bias going over the hips and the cross-grain over the tummy. I discovered that what this meant was that the skirt fell straight down over my tummy, which normally sticks out, making it appear quite flat; and the bias made my hips look non-lumpy - it didn't stick to them, but skimmed them. I also wound up with a LOT of different girls borrowing my clothes, and I discovered that the half-circle skirt was universally flattering - it was the one shape that looked good on Apples, Pears, Rulers, Hourglasses, and the V-shaped ladies. Narrow waist, narrow hip, tummy, whatever; that half-circle (as opposed to the full circle), especially worn with the seam in the back (along the straight of the grain/selvedge), flattered everyone, whatever her shape, thin or fat. Now, I will say that I think it looks best in a fabric with some drape; soft and heavy, soft and light. I think if I were going to make it in something crisp, I would want to make sure the skirt was below knee-length, to counteract any poufiness - which would still be less than that of a full-circle skirt.
Barbara Prime, take the time to go to some of the pattern sites in the sidebar here at Erin's blog - it's not a thriftshop, but it's also not eBay. I'd also recommend http://evadress.com; she has lovely patterns, and unbeatable customer service.
Sue, gathers like that aren't terribly difficult. Usually the directions will tell you to pull one of the machine threads to gather the fabric, but many of us here prefer to run a zigzag thread over a heavier thread, thereby making a little drawstring casing for the gathering thread. Don't be afraid to push the gathers around until they are in the most flattering spot for you; then sew right over the gathering thread to lock the gathers in position.
Theresa, if your belly and midriff don't tend to protrude, it doesn't seem as if you're an Apple. Based on your measurements alone, it does seem as if you are the classic V; but we don't do that, do we? We take a photograph of you from behind to see if your shoulders are wider than your hips, because it's the bone structure that determines the build. Your bust measurement makes it easiest for you to dress as a V; even if your shoulders are the same width as your hips, you seem too bosomy to be a ruler of any kind. If you tend to lose weight in the hip area, it indicates even more strongly that you're a "V." I find it surprising that you get a good fit with a 40B pattern, since you wear a 38DD bra; are you totally happy with the fit of the patterns in the neck and shoulder area? I will say that 30s and 40s patterns, such as this, are absolutely made for you. (This one is copyright 1945 - I looked on the back!)
geogrrl, I agree with every single suggestion! Soft fabric, and verrry careful flower placement over the bosom (I happen to love florals). I would be very polka-dot-georgette inclined for this, myself.
Cookie, that's essentially what I was recommending to one of the women yesterday who's been losing weight: essentially, a peasant blouse with a half-circle skirt attached, with the elastic accessible so it can be adjusted if she loses or gains weight! It's such a useful, basic style - and fits nicely under wrap dresses or jumpers!
knitgirl, you've either read me here, or you've read a blog by someone else using this name! I'll comment at The Manolo, and a few other places, but I don't have my own blog. You can find bunches of my posts here at DressADay, but for now, no blog of my own!
At May 2, 2008 12:51:00 PM,
Cookie said…
Belladonna: You must have planted the peasant blouse image in my head yesterday! I don't remember reading that, and yet the mind is a strange thing, is it not? I did think it was odd I was randomly thinking of peasant blouse dresses with sweeping skirts...
At May 2, 2008 2:43:00 PM,
kelly said…
I hope you're planning on wearing cloges and holding flowers. Oh, and the hat. You must wear the hat!
I love the dress. I even like the gathers.
At May 2, 2008 2:44:00 PM,
kelly said…
regarding previous post:
cloges = gloves!
At May 2, 2008 4:42:00 PM,
asrojen said…
After yesterdays encouragement, I would have to do a full circle skirt, even if I had to do it overs few times. Being a novice I don't expect to get it right but I sure will try.
I am with Julie, definitely a border print, and yes to Kelly, clogs and gloves with a cute summery hat. How fun would that be?
Can't wait to see what you decide Erin.
At May 2, 2008 5:29:00 PM,
Sarah said…
La Bella Donna:
Loved your comments. Would you clarify the half circle skirt construction? How many seams are there? If one piece, is it shaped like half of a large donut? Or do you do it in gores? You have inspired me to make a "peasant shirt with half circle skirt attached in soft drapey polka dots." Ahhh summer is calling...
P.S. Consider seriously starting your own blog. We would all read it you know.
At May 2, 2008 5:42:00 PM,
evalyn said…
Eyelet by all means, or a boarder print.
At May 2, 2008 5:49:00 PM,
minya, warrior seamstress said…
Thank you, La Belladonna. You have helped me to decide what to change the straight skirt of my shirtdress into. Now I have only to figure out if I want it to button all or just part of the way down.
At May 2, 2008 6:39:00 PM,
La BellaDonna said…
Cookie, I had a peasant blouse that I'd made for myself; dark blue roses on a pale blue background. I'd worn it for a couple of years, but I didn't get as much mileage out of it as I had expected. I still had (of COURSE!) the rest of the fabric I'd cut the blouse from, and it was absolutely enough to cut a half circle of fabric! I ran the seam up the back, and sewed the blouse onto the skirt at the waist. I'd cut the waistline of the skirt wide enough to pull over my hips or my bust, and it was basically the same width around as the bottom of the peasant blouse, which I cut off a bit at the bottom - I left it long enough to blouse comfortably so I could reach for things, but as the bodice of a dress, it didn't need to be as long as it did as a solo blouse. If the blouse had been extra-full, I would have left the gathers as-is around the neck, but nipped them into neat little tucks at the waist, concentrating the ones in the front towards the bust.
I finished the edges of both blouse and skirt at the waist before I stitched them together with an extra-wide seam allowance, which I then stitched closed, forming a casing to slip in a piece of elastic for the waist. It made an EXCELLENT, comfy dress! If I were losing or gaining weight either rapidly or often, I'd leave the waistband casing open about an inch, cut the elastic extra-long, and either baste or safety-pin the elastic where I needed it the day I wore it. I think of it as a "tailored" chemise! It makes a perfect underlayer, as well as being lovely on its own, and is fabulous in a soft silk!
Minya, speaking from my own experience, while I love the look of a shirtdress that buttons all the way down, I have found to my dismay that I invariably send at least one skirt button spinning off into space with the amount of crouching, kneeling, stretching, and bus-sprinting I do during the day! So much so that I've actually stitched a couple of button-all-the-way shirtdresses closed, partway down the skirt! And yes, I will often change a straight skirt for the more forgiving half-circle!
Sarah, I usually use 45" wide or 54"-60" wide fabric to make a half circle skirt, so there is one seam, and the piece IS shaped like half a donut. You don't need to buy a pattern for one, either. I will repeat the instructions I wrote here some time back for making a half-circle skirt without a pattern:
Patternless Half-Circle Skirt
It's easiest to start with 2.5 yards of 45" fabric, unless you are quite large, size 4X or 5X, in which case, 60" fabric is better for you to start with: you will need 120" or 10 feet of 60" fabric, instead of 2.5 yards of 45" fabric, but the rest of the instructions are the same). Take your 2.5 yard rectangle and fold it into a square (take your 10-foot rectangle and fold it into a square). The back zipper will be set into the selvedge edge; the fold of the fabric is the area which will hang down over the tummy when the skirt is worn. Take a tapemeasure and pin it in the corner where it's folded (right where the selvedge is folded). There will be two folded corners, one "top" and one "bottom"; pick either one to work with, and stick with it - don't alternate! Use a good sturdy T-pin run straight down into something stickable, like your cutting table, or a carpet on the floor, so it can act as the pivot center for your tape measure. You will first be marking the Waist of the skirt. Measure down along the selvedge approximately 1/3 of your waist measurement. Make a mark with your chalk here at the selvedge (the Waist Mark). Mark an arc from the selvedge to the fold of the fabric by swinging your tape along its T-pin pivot (the Waist Mark Arc) (best to mark every inch and then connect-the-dots to make the Waist Mark Arc). Now take your tape measure and measure down along the selvedge from the top of the Waist Mark Arc to Your Favorite Skirt Length, plus a couple of inches for safety's sake. Doesn't matter if it's 26 inches or 40 inches; use whatever your favorite finished skirt length is, PLUS that extra couple of inches! The extra inches will be taken up in your hem, your waist seam, and Extra Just In Case. Make another mark at the selvedge where this length is (the Skirt Length Hem Mark). T-Pin that tape measure back up in the corner fold where you first had it pinned, and where you made your Skirt Length Hem Mark (which should be 1/3 Your Waist Length + Your Favorite Skirt Length + Couple Of Safety Inches), swing that tape measure from the selvedge edge of the fabric to the folded edge of the fabric, marking every couple of inches and joining the marks (connect-the-dot fashion) into an arc (the Skirt Length Hem Arc), just the way you made the first one. Keeping the fabric folded, make a row of pins about an inch away from each line you have marked in chalk: the Waist Mark Arc and the Skirt Hem Arc. I recommend placing the pins parallel, not at right angles, because you are cutting, not sewing, and you don't want to accidentally nick your good scissors by cutting into a pin. Once you're done pinning, cut along the Waist Mark Arc that you've drawn, and then cut along the Skirt Length Hem Arc that you've drawn. Take the pins out. You should have a half circle shape of fabric with a half circle cut out at the top along the selvedge (this part is the waist of your skirt), with plenty of fabric left for cutting Your Favorite Width Waistband. You should even be able to cut the waistband with one side on the selvedge so it doesn't need to be finished along that side! Stitch up the back seam (the selvedge) and put in a zipper. Use any length zipper you like; if you have a small waist and big hips, you can use a 10" or 12" zipper; that's what I do. Cut your waistband twice the Finished Width You Like, Plus Your Favorite Seam Allowance Width. Interface it, if you interface your waistbands. Put on the waistband, add a hook and eye, let the skirt hang down a couple of days to stretch out,and then have the hem marked off WHILE YOU WEAR THE SKIRT, and make a very narrow hem. I usually machine stitch my hems, and not with a blind hemmer either, I make a sturdy machined hem and cover it with trim.
Be conservative cutting out the size of the waist circle; you can make it larger by cutting it out further in tiny increments. The skirt will stretch most where it's bias, and the back seam won't stretch at all. If I'm making the waist of a finished skirt larger (sob!) I'll take a bit more off the front than the back, which isn't stretchy. Of course, if you make the waist a little too big, just use an elastic the right length, instead of interfacing, in the waistband. Then you'll have a waistband that expands with you.
It's one of the most flattering skirt shapes possible, and it's easier to make than describe. (You can take two squares of toilet paper, fold it down to one square, and try the technique out; you'll see!) N.B. Unless I'm making a shaped waistband which is a feature of a skirt, in which case it may get all kinds of stiffening and boning, I almost never put any kind of interfacing in a waistband. I don't want it that stiff. What I will use to give it body instead is a length of elastic of the right width. The waistband doesn't look any different, but it's much more comfortable.
And of course, there are all sorts of variations possible on this skirt, with handkerchief hems and ruffles. If there was ever a candidate for making over and over, especially for summer skirts, it's this one!
At May 2, 2008 8:18:00 PM,
lorrwill said…
“have the hem marked off WHILE YOU WEAR THE SKIRT”
This reminds me that I need to buy one of those chalk marking puffy thingies (I don't have any helpers). I can't remember who's blog it was that also stressed the importance of this. The hem may look funky (uneven) on the hanger but will be perfect on the body.
And I definitely have an imperfect body that can use all the help it can get. :-)
(La Belladonna thank you so much for this. You rule!)
At May 2, 2008 10:39:00 PM,
geogrrl said…
Belladonna, thank you. I'm so glad you agree.
I love me a full circle skirt too if I want something very swishy, but I often find the half- or 3/4-circle more flattering on me. Also easier to cut out.
Another style I love is the 6- or 8-gore skirt. You can have a lot of fun with that, flaring the hem, adding godets, and so on.
Like you said, I'd keep the pattern on the fabric small for this dress. My basic rule is that the more detail the design has, the less pattern/business the fabric should have, and vice-versa. As far as colour goes, well, the world is your oyster, so to speak.
You sound like you have a great deal of expertise. I'm just picking up sewing again after almost 20 years away from it. And I'm starting to teach myself pattern drafting--something I've always wanted to learn.
My grandmother had to make all of her own clothes. She was over 6', and back in the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s, very little fit someone her height. Consequently, she was a skilled seamstress. My mother said she could show my grandmother a dress, and grandma would carefully look it over, then go home and draft the pattern and duplicate the design, but in the recipient's size. I dream of having that kind of skill.
At May 3, 2008 1:11:00 AM,
wundermary said…
This just begs for eyelet or a border print. I imagine this working so well with rayon. It is sweet and lovely.
At May 3, 2008 7:51:00 AM,
Hana said…
I love it, too. I'm afraid I'll have to knock it off... the neckline and the sleeves, it's really awesome.
At May 3, 2008 7:59:00 AM,
charlotte carroll said…
on finding out which figure shape you are...
according to a book that I read which is wonderful! btw...
you are an hourglass if your shoulder,bust, and Hip measurement are 25% larger than your waist measurement ...AND... your shoulder /bust and Hip measurements are 25% larger than your waist measurement.
so, I am 42 at the shoulder and 41.5 at the hip and 30 at the waist. So that fits. -I have discovered that dresses that look the best on me are the ones that are very well balanced.
you are triangle(pear) if your shoulders and bust are 5% smaller than your hip measurement.
Dresses that look the best have a lot of shoulder and bust details and not a lot going on down below the waist. And draws attention to your shoulders and bust. Such as a gathered sleeve or pockets... I can't wear these..I will look like a football player. UNLESS! I have a huge petticoat on..then its even. :)
If you are a Inverted Triangle its the opposite of the triangle.. so. your shoulders and or bust measurement would be 5% larger than your hip measurement. According to the book, most models are this shape. and most clothes that are manufactured in the fashion industry are also for this shape.
No strait or pencil skirts allowed here. or shoulder details. the opposite is suggested. You do the details at the bottom with a fuller skirt and less details at the top with strapless or open necklines and very low profile sleeves.
And a Rectangle is a shape that has hip and shoulder/bust measurements that are with 5% of each other and also a waist that is not 25% smaller. if your waist is more than 25% smaller than you fall into one of the other categories. The dresses that are supposed to look good on this figure are those with belts and and details at top and bottom so that you remain balanced with the added object of creating a waistline. I have noticed that most women who used to be hourglass shapes become rectangles after menopause.
Love this blog. and btw, i got a dress the other day at Walmart.. and added a little eyelet trim to the neckline. its very cute and very cheap and though it isn't as nice as the ones I made or fit as well...I am glad I bought it... the end of the dress blog kind of freaked me out. I am so glad I sew!!!
At May 3, 2008 1:49:00 PM,
Sue said…
la belladonna,
Thanks for the suggestions!
At May 3, 2008 5:16:00 PM,
harthad said…
la belladonna,
Thanks for explaining the half-circle skirt! If only I had known this neat trick before I cut out the A-line currently on my work table....Can't wait to give it a try.
At May 3, 2008 6:39:00 PM,
Theresa said…
Thanks La Bella Donna-- My shoulders are a little wider then my hips. My stomach protrudes a little chest does more and i can create the illusion that it does not. I have 1 40's repro pattern...guess I'll get more. I was afraid it would my broad shoulders look much broader. I think my best assets are my legs -- they are short but shapely. I appreciate the support! And surprisingly t shoulders and neck fit fine on 40 b patterns. Luck I guess...
At May 4, 2008 12:33:00 AM,
little red hen said…
You lucky girl. Finding a stash of patterns like that is pretty special isn't it? I found a whole suitcase full at a garage sale and paid $5 for the lot including the case! Having read la BellaDonna's comment I have resolved to make myself a half circle skirt! I remember my grandmother making them all the time for her dancing dresses for 'the club' Saturday night dances (the 30's & 40's were her heyday.) The dresses always looked lovely and beautifully 'swishy' still even as half circles when they were full length.
At May 4, 2008 2:51:00 AM,
Ruth Singer said…
ooh, now if you made it in gingham you could smock the neckline instead of making gathers. That would be cool. I'm quite keen on turquoise gingham at the moment.
At May 4, 2008 11:38:00 PM,
cheriezel said…
as for the pear vs hourglass, my girlfriend just claims "she's an hourglass with alot more time on her hands in the afternoon".....
At May 5, 2008 5:04:00 PM,
Sharon said…
I'm definitely a V -5 feet, 125 (need to lose 10 pounds) 38-28-35, with broad shoulders and a sticky out bottom despite slim hips. And of course, no waist. 34C. If it fits me in the hips, its too tight in the waist. If it fits me in the waist, its too big at the hips. Top is bigger size than bottom, except for the thick waist issue. That is a very cute dress, but especially the bodice, it would make me look like a hippo,on top, with all that gathering. Too bad. Like the 1/2 circle skirt idea though. How does one make one?
At May 6, 2008 7:14:00 AM,
Samantha said…
Eyelet!!!! After all that lace at Prada's last show.. why not!
Or a border print... maybe starting the print above and below the waistband instead of at the neckline/hemline...
Or a sheer fabric over a slightly different colored bottom layer - but only if both fabrics have a fab. drape.
those are my thoughts anyway.. :)
At May 6, 2008 3:33:00 PM,
Jo said…
I had the same idea as Ruth - a little bit of geometric smocking holding in the gathers along the neckline...and maybe a few rows at the waistline, too, to eliminate some of the "poofiness" of the gathers. I'm partial to solid color smocking over medium-small florals...Liberty prints are great :) Jo
At May 6, 2008 11:09:00 PM,
Super Kawaii Mama said…
Being that you are the best expert I know on vintage patterns, I have a question for you. I'd like to make up some garments from vintage patterns but I am worried about the sizing. With modern patterns, particularly Butterick, if I go by their measurement scale provided it tells me to make the dress 3 sizes bigger than I actually need! Is this a common problem when sizing for vintage patterns or are they pretty true?
At May 7, 2008 7:50:00 AM,
cpeep said…
I think what you are asking is whether it is true, as it seems, that pattern sizing and store sizing are completely unrelated to each other? I know that even before the rather recent inflation of store sizes (the one that let me "drop" from a 10 to a 6 even though I had two babies and aged 20 years)I always wore a larger size in patterns than in store bought. If you look at a vintage pattern, you will see, say, a size 14 with a bust of 32". Go by your measurements. Don't be put off by that other number :)
Carol
Extreme Cards and Papercrafting
At May 7, 2008 5:33:00 PM,
Super Kawaii Mama said…
Thanks Carol. Actually I was referring to my body measurements. I take them all down accurately and the size the pattern then give me is always 3 sizes too big? how does this happen? Is it something to do with averaging body sizes to measurements? For example - do they think that if your hip measurement is X then you shoulder will therefore be Y.
At May 8, 2008 7:55:00 AM,
La BellaDonna said…
Super Kawaii Mama, YES. This DOES mean they think if your hip measurement is X then your shoulder will therefore be Y. In this case, all the scaling up and down is based on your BUST measurement.
Are you buying your patterns by your bust measurement, as the pattern companies tell you to?
Ladies, sing it with me if you know the words:
Unless you wear a B-Cup Bra, and you know you are wearing the right SIZE bra, DO NOT BUY PATTERNS BY YOUR BUST MEASUREMENT!
ALL patterns are sized AND SCALED for B-cup bras. That 40" bust-size pattern? That's sized for a 38B bra. That 38" bust-size pattern? That's sized for a 36B bra. That 34" bust size pattern? That's sized for a 32B bra.
If you are a rather small-boned person who wears, say, a 32D bra (which means your bust measurement is 36"), and you buy a pattern with a bust measurement of 36", tra la tra la, thinking it's the right size, IT WILL BE TOO BIG. It will be GINORMOUS in the shoulders, in the neck in the back. You will be wearing Bag City, and you will wonder why, because you bought the right size pattern, didn't you?
No. You did not. You needed to buy a size 32 pattern, and enlarge the bust area only on the pattern. Normally, a good patterns alterations book will explain that if you're over that B cup, measure your chest - under the arms, but ABOVE the bust - and use that number as if it was your bust size, to buy the pattern.
I'll give you a faster code: Since we all KNOW (now) that the patterns are sized for a B-cup, first: make sure you are buying the right size bra. THEN: USE THE NUMBER OF THE BAND SIZE TO BUY YOUR PATTERN. You wear a 40C bra? Buy a size 40 pattern, and enlarge the bust 1". You wear a 36D bra? Buy the size 36 pattern, enlarge the bust 2". You wear a 32H bra? Oy. Buy the size 32 pattern, enlarge the bust 6", and be prepared to wear a lot of princess-seamed bodices. For every size up over a B cup that you wear, prepare to enlarge the pattern front ONLY, an inch per cup size (that's a HALF-INCH per HALF-PATTERN piece, one inch total for both pattern fronts, per cup). You may need other alterations as well, but this is about sizing based on the bust.
This way, you are getting a pattern that is scaled to the bone structure, and adjusting it for your individual padding.
NOTE: Some pattern styles, and some pattern companies, do allow for a great deal of "ease" - wearing ease, which is room to breathe in the garment, and style ease, which is determined by how loose or narrow the shape of the garment is. (Plus, there's the "room for error ease.") I suspect you may need a smaller pattern, if you are consistently finding the ones you get are too big. If you ARE a B cup, and your bra is the right size (that is, you're wearing a B cup, and you actually are a B), then the patterns have more ease than you want. If you're buying a multi-size pattern, make sure you're cutting out the right size out of the group for you. If you HAVEN'T been using a multi-sized pattern, see if you can find a pattern you like that comes in a multi-size which includes your current (too big) size and a couple of smaller sizes, and be prepared to make it in each size until you find the right one. You may also find the occasional pattern, God bless them, that includes MULTIPLE BODICES - sized for an A cup, a B cup, a C cup, a D cup, and sometimes a DD cup. They are rare creatures, though, and worth buying when you see them just to have them to work with. They're very useful for altering those patterns which do NOT have multiple bust sizes offered.
At May 8, 2008 10:48:00 AM,
geogrrl said…
Belladonna, thank you for that. I've been sewing for years and I didn't realize.
Then again, I've got broad shoulders, which allowed me to get away with the larger bodice and not notice.
At May 8, 2008 5:17:00 PM,
La BellaDonna said…
Ugh, my apologies, I had a Bad Math Moment. My first Shortcut had Wrong Math. Instead:
ALL patterns are sized AND SCALED for B-cup bras. That 40" bust-size pattern? That's sized for a 38B bra. That 38" bust-size pattern? That's sized for a 36B bra. That 34" bust size pattern? That's sized for a 32B bra. (That part is CORRECT. Below is some more CORRECT STUFF.)
You can see by this that you buy a pattern that is two inches bigger than your band. So, the 38-whatever cup buys a 40” pattern (because it’s sized for a 38 band, B cup), and if her cup size is bigger, she makes the adjustment.
A fast size list: size 30 bra band looks for a pattern with a 32” bust; size 32 bra band buys the pattern with a 34” bust; size 34 bra band buys the pattern for a 36” bust; size 36 bra band buys the pattern for a 38” bust; size 38 bra band buys for a 40” bust; size 40 bra band buys for a 42” bust; and I don’t have the other size conversions, which don’t stay as tidy and symmetrical.
It works the same way for A and AA cups too, except that they make the front bodice pattern SMALLER, after buying the regular pattern which is two inches bigger than their band sizes. The pattern gets made smaller in the front, where they are smaller; but all the rest of the proportions will be right for them. That is the theory, at least; so the 34AA bra wearer would buy a 36" pattern and flatten out the darts. Muslins are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - as always!
At May 8, 2008 5:38:00 PM,
Super Kawaii Mama said…
La Bella Donna: Thank You! That certainly sheds some light on the issue. I'll have a crack at some today and see what miracles happen.
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