A Dress A Day

A dress.
Mostly every day.

February 26, 2008

Shirtwaist #1

Simplicity 5232

So far, in my new obsession with shirtdresses, I've made the pattern above three times.

Here's the first version I made ("the beta"), in the gray polka-dot cotton I bought in Japan:

Gray Dot Dress 1

I was pretty ambitious for a beta version; check out the rickrack on the collar and the inserted cording along the front dress edge:

Gray Dot Dress 2

I did make some alterations to the pattern: I added pockets (they're hidden in the front skirt seam, under those pleats); I shortened the sleeves (a LOT), and I gave myself more room in the waist.

Of course, it being the first go-round, I did screw up a couple things. First of all, Pellon Shirtailor interfacing could probably compete in an Ironman. (Heck, it's probably used in IRONMAN's suit!) That stuff is STIFF. I didn't really want the dress to stand up by itself ...

Also, I messed up the placement of the buttons. The pattern suggested the spacing I used, with no button at the waist, since it will get caught up on your belt. But I forgot that I don't plan to wear a belt with this. This means I don't have a button at the waist to hold it together, and have a hook-and-bar-tack closure instead. I *hate* hook-and-bar-tack closures. (I suppose I *could* break down and wear a belt, but I have a huge ranty post coming up about the current belt insanity, and I'm afraid wearing a belt now will hurt my credibility later.)

Of course, looking at the picture, it looks like I could sneak in one more button just a teeeeeny bit under the waistline, and have the buttons still look more-or-less spaced. Hmm. Must consider.

Despite these gross errors, the dress is still wearable -- I've worn it two or three times. I like to wear it with bright tights and a matching cardigan (that is, a cardigan that matches the tights -- especially a yellow tights/yellow cardigan combo).

Tomorrow: version #2, in which I make significant improvements.

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33 Comments:

  • At Feb 26, 2008 9:40:00 AM, Blogger the_lazymilliner said…

    This is really nice, Erin. I see you're getting for spring already. Bravo!

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 9:44:00 AM, Anonymous Donna said…

    I love this dress and totally admire the rickrack AND inserted cording. I have a question - did you interface the entire dress with the pellon, or just the collar? Your comment about the dress standing up by itself promped this question. Do you usually underline your cottons when you make a dress? Thanks !

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 9:47:00 AM, Blogger Ashe Mischief said…

    Love the fabric-- it's just fantastic. And the idea of it with bright yellow tights & a matching cardigan makes me very happy. Wonderful and odd color pairing, but it sounds great.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 9:50:00 AM, Blogger Erin said…

    Donna -- no, I didn't underline the whole dress -- just interfaced the collar and front facings.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 9:53:00 AM, Blogger the_lazymilliner said…

    I meant to say you're getting ready for spring already...I'd also add that if I made this dress, I'd have Fourth of July red buttons and rick-rack.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:25:00 AM, Blogger Lydia said…

    Mmmm. I love matching belts. I'm all *ears perked* to hear your rant, now. 'Cos even when I disagree with you, your rants are wonderful.

    Also: That cording along the buttonhole edge is beautiful. Do I have the patience/motivation to try that sometime? Unsure.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:26:00 AM, Blogger Nora said…

    Cute! You can totally sneak in another button, I think. I love the grey and yellow combination (red would be great too). I have some grey-with-white polkadot fabric waiting to be sewn up when I get over this @#$% flu...but it's sort of an odd color grey (has a bit of green in it), so I'm trying to find something to use for trim and was thinking of yellow. Plum-blossom pink is also calling me, as all the ornamental plums on my street are in bloom. (Yes, it's already spring here. Sorry!)

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:41:00 AM, Blogger Kristen said…

    I too have a love for belts, and look forward to hearing (seeing?) your rant. It's always nice to get a little "other opinion" in one's reportoire, just to make sure one is not going a bit overboard... :)

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:41:00 AM, Blogger Leslie from Goodcrafternoon.com said…

    That dress with the rick rack and inserted cording is pure genius. As is the matching of it with yellow.

    Gray and yellow seem to be quite a popular mix these days.

    I love seeing your work. Thanks for sharing. It made my day!

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:52:00 AM, OpenID andreahg said…

    What a lovely dress! I can't believe it's a beta! The thought of wearing it with yellow cardi is pure genius. I could also see it with a rich, dark purple.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:59:00 AM, Blogger Shannon said…

    I like it. I made myself a yellow dress with lavender collar and sleeve bands last summer, and came up with a similar problem when it came time to place the buttons. I was NOT going to wear a belt, hate the hook and bar closures because I am forever re-sewing them back on, so I just placed one button about 1/2 - 3/4 inch above the waist seam, and another the same distance below the waist seam, and then spaced the rest of the buttons out from there. And since it was done on purpose, the double button at the waist doesn't look too bad.

    Also, for a cotton dress that we don't want standing on it's own, the best interfacing I've found (taken at my mom's suggestion, and she's been sewing FOR-EV-ER) is a flat twin-sized white cotton sheet from Wal-Mart. They're $2-$3 down here in central IL, and they give you dozens of dresses worth of collar and button placket interfacing, and they never make those awful stiff board-like things running down the front of your nice soft cotton dresses. And they're way cheaper than "real" interfacing. :)

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:59:00 AM, Blogger Suzanne said…

    ONLY BETA! Its awfully lovely for a beta version. It looks SO WEARABLE. I can see your accessories too, the tights and cardigan.

    I knit obsessively, but I do not yet know how to sew....but I may be changing my mind. You may qualify as a DANGEROUS CRAFT PUSHER!

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 11:17:00 AM, Anonymous Anotheryarn said…

    Oh yay! Thank you for sharing one of your dress creations again. I always enjoy seeing interpretation of vintage patterns.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 11:30:00 AM, Blogger Cookie said…

    The rickrack peeking out from under the collar like that is genius. I didn't notice it at first, then spotted "rick rack" in your post and feared it would be covering that line down near the underturned hem or something. Perhaps in a vividly contrasting color, which is NOT my cup of tea.

    As usual, though, you came through and delivered.

    Though I've worked as a wardrobe supervisor for some big costume designers, got an A in Home Ec and know how to mend, I have never made a garment from scratch. Your blog is inspiring me! I have an idea in mind; will post about it next week or so : )

    PS: I think your gray would also look superb with a pale aqua cardigan. But then, I'm seemingly unaturally attracted to seafoam colors right now.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 11:51:00 AM, Blogger HouseMouse said…

    Thanks for the dress pictures! It's always nice to see the patterns "in person." You most definitely could put a button right under the waistline there and still have fine spacing--in fact, visually there's a gap without one. I'm usually annoyed by belts with dresses unless there's a full complement of real belt loops. Otherwise, they ride up, spin around, and generally don't stay where they belong. I firmly believe I should be able to put my clothes on and forget about them for the rest of the day!

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 12:07:00 PM, Anonymous Diane said…

    Hmmm, I'm not that crazy about belts either but you'll notice that all the views in the pattern are shown with belts. Perhaps a matching sash? Ok, a sash is really a belt but with a sash you can keep your credibility. The details and fabric are lovely and a sash would make it look more finished (polished). Hook and eyes be damned!

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 12:15:00 PM, Blogger sixties sewer said…

    Gray, my all time favorite. This is a wonderful dress! Can you describe, sometime, how you put in the cording -- is it against the fold edge and then sewed down from the outside with a zipper foot? Love this idea and never saw it done before.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 12:16:00 PM, Blogger Tea said…

    Wonderful! I love gray and yellow together. And in an unrelated note, I attended a copyediting audio conference call today in which the teacher (Editor of Copyediting magazine) used an example from something you'd written (about Geoff Nunberg).

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 12:27:00 PM, Blogger Erin said…

    The cording -- yes, it's just put in the fold and sewn down with the zipper foot.

    Of course, you have to fiddle with the order of putting things together a little bit, because it's easier to do the entire front edge at once instead of trying to join the lumpy corded bits together at the waist seam. Not that I did it the hard way first or anything!

    Tea -- that must have been Wendi! I can't remember what I wrote about Geoff, but I bet it was nice. I like him a great deal.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 12:29:00 PM, Blogger Bean said…

    Ooh, I love it!! I'm in love with shirt dresses, as well... I'll have to find this particular pattern :)

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 1:09:00 PM, Blogger Theresa said…

    I love the dress. I am weighing in on the pro belt side. I am short bperson with the torso of a 6' foot amazon with no waist. I nice wide belt does wonders in giving me a waist and making my upper and lower half look more in proportion. I like the wide ones that have interesting buckles and fronts but wide stretchy elastic backs. My favorite right now are a faux tortoise shell (matches so many things) and a bright kelly green belt.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 1:58:00 PM, Blogger Joni said…

    I second the sash suggestion (sashgestion?) I love sashes and tied belts; they just add something to a dress that a plain ol' belt does not.

    I'm seeing a lot of shirtwaists and wrap dresses. Since I'll be nursing again pretty soon (as soon as this darn baby vacates my uterus already) I have to say, Hallelujah! I had to make do with a lot of skirts and tops the first two times around.

    Now, if I only had a machine that does buttonholes...

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 3:18:00 PM, Blogger baylibrarian said…

    The rick rack is sublime.

    Credibility...like when you run for pres. and they dig up your blog where you decry belts and then you...wore one 'cause the dress looked good with a belt?

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 4:30:00 PM, Anonymous Samantha said…

    i am third-or-fourthing the sash. You can make one out of novelty fabric that clashes Duro-style, and has a little snap to hold it. I have a belt cum sash- it is all pleated fabric till it slides through a metal closure. it's nice. you could pull it off. :) anyways, half the fun of rants is that they are generalizations but there are always exceptions. Like fast food is always unhealthy except when you have no food at all.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 4:53:00 PM, Blogger Michelle said…

    OOh - I love this! I can totally imagine wearing it with big bright yellow beads.

    If you do end up making a fabric belt (although I don't think it needs it) I bright yellow vintage buckle would be perfect!

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 5:22:00 PM, Blogger Sugardale said…

    As far as belts go...
    You could make your own belt. In an ideal world you would still have enough of that same fabric left to conjure up a belt. There is an issue of Threads that features an article on how to custom cover the belt buckle. It is so great. For almost every dress I make (especially one with a waistline seam) I custom cover a belt to go with it, and they get easier every time. Anyway, it is the March 2007 issue #129. You can buy it online at threadsmagazine.com

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 8:33:00 PM, Blogger THE BLUEST BUTTERFLY said…

    I look forward to your thoughts on belts. I hadn't noticed that there was a belt craze....I will have to start being more observant. I like nice tights. I am going to attempt making gradient tights.

     
  • At Feb 26, 2008 10:11:00 PM, Blogger Altissima said…

    Several people have suggested a sash. I also thought along those lines - a wide ribbon in cherry red, magenta or deep plum would look lovely.

     
  • At Feb 27, 2008 3:02:00 AM, Blogger katana said…

    Gah! I really WISH i could sew over your shoulder one day... if you know what I mean. A Day in the Sewing Room with Erin would be an interesting thing to watch. Kindof like a Secret Lives of Dresses.

     
  • At Feb 27, 2008 9:04:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    in my mind, this dress is screaming for a self belt-
    SCREAMING !

    john

     
  • At Feb 27, 2008 2:48:00 PM, Blogger Bettsi McComb said…

    Saturday I had the pleasure of doing a re-con on an eighties shirtdress. I made a self belt with an elastic insert in the back and made covered buckle for it too. I was very proud of my engineering work! However, I must second the idea of a grossgrain ribbon sash. Also, someone else suggested the aqua tights and sweater and I wholeheartedly agree. A divine combination!

     
  • At Feb 29, 2008 6:15:00 AM, Blogger Jo said…

    Training as a Home Ec teacher we were taught to use interfacing which was no heavier weight than the fabric being interfaced, ie heavy wool, heavier interfacing (it was woven horse hair and wool interfacing on our tailored suits and there were different weights in that too to use on heavier and lighter weight wools, but I don't think they make it now a days!!)
    If silk use a similar weight. Nothing stiffer than the fabric you are using to make the garment.

     
  • At Mar 1, 2008 11:10:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Perhaps you'd like the above-mentioned fastenings better under their English name, 'hook & eye'?
    J.

     

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