Mouret, your way.
I'm sure you've all seen this Fall 2005 dress from Roland Mouret -- if not on the runway, then on innumerable starlets on the red carpet. (I leave the googling up of those links as an exercise for the reader.)
Now, my friends, you can make your own! Melissa sent me this Vogue pattern:
At, one must assume, a fraction of the cost of a "real" Mouret. (Actual math, again, left as one of those pesky reader exercises.) The Vogue pattern, as well, has a long-sleeved version, and one with a pleated hem, both of which variations appeal to me. I also like it as shown, in a Prince of Wales check or some other menswear fabric; much less obvious than a single bright vampy color. And while we're firmly in the realm of hypotheticals, I'd want to adapt the skirt to have welt pockets, with flaps matching those on the sleeves.
What would you do with this pattern?
posted by Erin @ 8:06 AM
27 Comments:
At Jul 1, 2006 8:25:00 AM,
Anonymous said…
Hey, this is such a fun blog.
I got this dress last season and the glove like fit hinges on the super tight elastane/lycra lining. It is the absence of lining that makes the dress tough to replicate. Start with that and you can't go far wrong! Jess
At Jul 1, 2006 9:06:00 AM,
Esther.A said…
I shall need my magic knickers for this one.
At Jul 1, 2006 10:48:00 AM,
anno said…
Now that's a devastating dress.
Not for me, though. Not until I look like Uma Thurman and have a life that takes me someplace other than the grocery store and the vet.
Maybe I should have a dress like this hanging in my closet just for inspiration (and hope). Sigh.
At Jul 1, 2006 10:51:00 AM,
melissa joy said…
love the neckline from the pattern because it comes in just a bit more. i'd change the skirt, but that's cause i like flared skirts.
At Jul 1, 2006 11:16:00 AM,
Jonquil said…
Now I, too, want magic knickers; tell me more?
What is that odd clipp-y thing the model is wearing on one shoulder? Her ID badge? Her hearing aid?
At Jul 1, 2006 11:35:00 AM,
arabellaesmerelda said…
Assuming I had the figure to wear this design ...I don't see this one passing the sit down test – ala Craig & Rush, I would like to sew this pattern (actually, I would prefer someone else do the sewing and I do the directing) using a heavy, dark brown or black crêpe de chine. It would take some playing around to get it just right, but I think a crocheted ivory lace (studded with small rhinestones) somewhere on the neckline would provide nice contrast to the solid colored fabric. Aesthetically, the short sleeves might be most appropriate, although the sleeveless and/or long sleeved options might work.
At Jul 1, 2006 11:53:00 AM,
Anonymous said…
Black skirt and sleeves; hornet yellow bodice-bada bing!
At Jul 1, 2006 12:00:00 PM,
Rebecca said…
I wouldn't even attempt, simply because of how stiff the one in the pattern picture looks. I love everything about the runway one EXCEPT that half of her bosoms are exposed; the color is beautiful, the length is lady-like, the drapiness is elegant (for the right event, of course).
And, yes, I do possess the necessary magic knickers.
At Jul 1, 2006 12:23:00 PM,
jenny said…
I've seen several celebrities in versions of this Mouret dress; one of my favorites was on Susannah Constantine in black. I love the shape of the neckline--it's perfect for showing off great collarbones! Like a strapless dress with a bolero over it.
And I also love that the sleeves have a bit more room in them than most sheath dresses! (I've always avoided sheaths because my gorilla shoulders practically pop the seams each time I reach for anything.) This dress looks like you could actually raise your arms and, say, do your hair while wearing the dress without feeling like you were wearing a modified strait-jacket.
At Jul 1, 2006 1:05:00 PM,
Gidget Bananas said…
I like the sweetheart-neckline version. The pattern is labeled "easy" -- is that really possible?
At Jul 1, 2006 1:21:00 PM,
iopine said…
I think I'd lower the neckline about an inch, and widen the sweetheart-ish neckline aspect; the Mouret shows more clavicle and shoulder, which I like. I'm wondering, are those pleats beneath the belt-line, or is that just wrinkling resulting from the way the woman has positioned her hands? It seems like there's a lot of extra fabric in the Vogue version, whereas the Mouret is quite fitted through the waist and hips. Along those lines, I could live with or without the belt.
I completely agree that the menswear fabric is fantastic. What about a loud, giant, houndstooth check?
At Jul 1, 2006 1:27:00 PM,
Melanie said…
Erin-do you let yourself in and photocopy my "inspiration book" at night? First it was the Duro dress and now Mouret. I have clips of Sienna Miller, Demi Moore, and Beyonce green, blue, plaid-they all look great. Magic knickers are a must with any slim skirt!! I do have to disagree with rebecca however-the vampiness of ample cleavage and ladylike length is what makes the dress amazing.
At Jul 1, 2006 2:59:00 PM,
-what's her face said…
Is there a slit in the back? Mine would have a slit.... and 3/4 long sleeves. Remember the "Stripes done right?" Well, I'd like a similar thing on this dress... only in black and very thin pinstripes. Maybe this is looking better in my imagination then on me. But, needless to say, i love it a mite too much.
At Jul 1, 2006 3:14:00 PM,
Nadine said…
Love the neckline!
I'd flare the skirt a bit, and shorten it a fraction (I have very short legs).
At Jul 1, 2006 5:13:00 PM,
bbrug said…
I like the sleeveless version with the flounce . . . but I'd have to make it in something with some stretch. Actually, a lot of stretch. In a dark color. And wear it with the magic girdle.
At Jul 1, 2006 6:00:00 PM,
lucitebox vintage said…
Is there a magic girdle of preference, ladies?
I'm a fan of Spanx. I've only had one model. I think it's called Higher Power. It DID roll down a little, though. I was bummed. I thought that wasn't supposed to happen. Anyone else have a favorite shape shifter?
Roland Mouret has been on my radar since I first saw things in the magazines. Every time I'd be gushing, I'd think, "Of course. It's that Mouret guy!" I love the kind of film noir quality the dresses have.
I'd want this one made in heavy deepest red crepe or maybe even those wool silk fabrics that were often during late 50s / early 60s. It might be nice to see the bodice inset in black and the rest in deep claret. I like the sleeveless version best with the straight skirt but can totally see the appeal of the short sleeve sweetheart, too.
Giant houndstooth would be exceptional, I agree, but not for me. Unless I get to wear a magic coat over it so no one can see my big backside.
At Jul 1, 2006 6:31:00 PM,
Carol said…
holly I agree. I love the idea of Spanx, but my Higher Power panties rolled down a little too. I thought I had found the Holy Grail until I wore them; bummer indeed. I plan to try the Slim Cognito seamless bodysuit with the strap that attaches to your bra - that should stop the roll down.
The Bra-llelujah is also almost perfect. I wouldn't know I had it on except that the stitching that attaches the straps to the band in the back is scratchy, and it has seams, so it won't work under clingy knits or T-shirts.
At Jul 1, 2006 7:16:00 PM,
floridaprincess said…
I love Roland Mouret. I so love this dress. I googled it a few months ago. I found a zillion knockoffs and an original or two on Ebay. My favorite is the the plaid one that Demi Moore wore. I would love to have one in mini houndstooth. I have a Nancy Ganz slip made out of heavy spanax. I wore it under my wedding dress. How the Nancy slip is around the neck I don't know if it would work for this Mouret dress. Perhaps I would need magic knickers. In my imagination I would make a zillion of these dresses in all kinds of fabrics. Solid colors and tweeds,plaids, prince of wales, wools, crepes. You name it. I saw a fabby silk pinstripey fabric that I think would even look fabby in this. Oh, hold me back!!! LOL
At Jul 1, 2006 7:34:00 PM,
sewinggirlfromtheothersideoftheworld said…
Ah the Roland dress knock off thing has been going strong down under as well. Face it girls it's a lovely dress that one has to go and visit the gym and get TONED to wear. Then put on the magic knickers....
The main difference between the Vogue and the original is that the originals have the whole corset thingy built in, and this one also looks like it has been made out of stretch fabric. I think the trick for the Vogue would be to make it out of a fabric that looks non-stretch but has an elastane component to it...just so that you can sit down in the thing..
At Jul 2, 2006 12:49:00 AM,
Anonymous said…
1. More tightly fitted than in the pattern, and I suppose line it (with something stretchy? as the first comment poster said) or try to find a slip that does the same thing...
2. Make the sleeves a little less gappy where they attach to the dress.
Hot!
:) Andrea
At Jul 2, 2006 6:29:00 AM,
cherie said…
I have the perfect black and white pinstripe stretch suiting for this. Now if only I had the perfect body for it!!
At Jul 2, 2006 12:02:00 PM,
Erica B. said…
Erin, I have already tried to hunt down this pattern locally, but it is not available in stores yet. This is definitely on my To-Sew list!
At Jul 2, 2006 2:05:00 PM,
Anonymous said…
For all of us who need magic nickers, may I suggest making your own? They are super easy, once you have snagged a vintage pattern on ebay and a copy of the book 'The Feminine Art' by Dolores Krinke, which has the most extensive chapters on making and fitting foundations I have ever found. Vintage versions of the lingerie sewing book published by Kwik Sew also have good info on this topic.
I can see this in my closet made three ways - the first is the short sleeved verson made in a cotton print for a '40's seaside look, and the second made sleeveless with the pleated hem in a dark crepe back satin, reversing the satin for the shoulder treatment and the pleated hem for a '50's torch singer look, and the third made in a subtle menswear wool in the long sleeve-with-cap-oversleeve and lenghthened hem for a '30's Bette Davis look. Great dress.
Amy
At Jul 5, 2006 3:56:00 PM,
KRiSTOPHER DUKES said…
Ooh la love. What a hot little dress.
Blogged about you, blog.thisnext.com
At Aug 14, 2006 9:19:00 AM,
rebecca said…
Beautiful dress just as it is and in the variations in the pattern. I plan to make it for my sylph-like city-dwelling daughter. I don't see myself wearing it to choir practice somehow.
As for the model's bosom, I am betting that it is all showing except the nipples, because she has a magic bra as well as magic panties, and has all her goods pushed up into the shop window so to speak.
At Aug 19, 2006 10:39:00 PM,
mamaella said…
I've been dying to sew a dress like this. I want to make my own pattern. What are the sleeves? So far I've googled it and came up with gathered cap sleeves, flutter sleeves and pleated cap sleeves.
Can you tell me how to do it?
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